Experiencing Japanese Traditions Hands-On

We had the good fortune to learn about and experience several traditional crafts that are uniquely Japanese.

Yuzen is a Japanese traditional kimono dyeing technique dating back to the 17th century. Although fabric dyeing was first introduced via China and Korea, yuzen dyeing which was developed in Kyoto is uniquely Japanese, and is known globally as Kyo-yuzen. It is named after Miyazaki Yuzensai, who became famous for his beautiful fan creations, and perfected the yuzen fabric dyeing technique to decorate kimonos with exquisite and intricate nature designs. 

There are two main dyeing methods used, one is hand painting which is laborious and time consuming, and the other is a resist dyeing process where dyes are applied inside stencil outlines. As the demand for Yuzen's painted kimonos and fans grew, the stencil method of applying paints helped speed the process. 

We spent an afternoon using the stencil method to apply a design on to fabric. We chose a design from a selection of various motifs, then applied paint in layers using the appropriate stencils in order. Much like working with applique designs in fabric, one works from the back to the front of the design, layering different paint colors from bottom to top.

This is my placemat with a temple and the calligraphy which says "flowers, birds, wind, and moon."  The temple was created by layering several stencils one at a time and applying different colors with each stencil. 

 

Michael chose a dragon, a motif that is often found on the ceilings of temples, and the same calligraphy. 

each stencil has to be carefully and exactly positioned
and the purple washi tape helps to keep the stencil corners
evenly aligned

Washi papermaking is a nationally important traditional Japanese craft, one we experienced on our trip to the village of Taira.  We learned about Gokayama washi, the traditional name for this hand-made paper from the village of Taira. 

A short movie explained the many labor-intensive steps of this process, followed by a demonstration, after which we made our own washi postcard-sized paper that we embellished with various motifs. 

This handmade paper has been produced in Japan for centuries. There is evidence of its existence from 1,200 years ago when 400 sheets were presented to the imperial court.  It's made from the inner bark of plants like the paper mulberry bush, gampi tree or mitsumata shrub, and involves laborious steps from harvesting to final completion. 

from gathering branches to removing inner bark fibers to pulp to paper

the viscous starch of a root plant binds the fibers
together and gives the paper its durability

a screen is dipped into the pulp 

the water is carefully shaken out, then
the process of dip and shake is repeated
twice more

lastly, the motifs are applied to the still
wet paper

a final coat is appled before drying the 
paper completely to become the final
product we each created to bring home with us

The lattice work on screen doors and windows in traditional homes is this same washi paper. Today, the industry focuses mostly on creating beautiful and durable craft paper used in chigiri-e (collaged artistic works), origami, books, cards, etc. The gift store attached to the workshop had some interesting items made out of washi paper. There were lanterns, lamp shades, slippers, bags, toys, to name a few. Washi paper is surprisngly durable. 

This is a chigiri-e, collaged art work, using washi paper - 

As is typical of the precision and artistry in which almost everything is presented, performed, and executed by the Japanese, the detail in this collage painting is exquisite. 

In Kanazawa, we enjoyed another hands-on experience after learning about gold leaf production, yet another delicate and laborious craft.  Kanazawa produces 99% of the country's gold leaf. Initially the delicately thin (a mere 1/10,000th mm) squares were used primarliy in temples but today the craft has expanded to include many craft items as well as foods. After our lesson and demonstration, we created our own gold-leaf cards. 

steps to create the fine gold leaf paper, from gold bullion to delicate squares

We watched an artisan behind glass operating the pounding machine that flattens gold leaf sheets layered between specially made washi paper. He rotates the layers of gold sheets continuously, for 8 hours a day!  The pounding is so loud that he wears ear protection (and why we observed the process from behind a glass window), and hopefully watches his fingers closely. The cylinders that pound the gold sheets come down with tremendous force.  

Using chopsticks, this artisan carefully and skilfully separates each gold leaf sheet that has been hammered and pounded into the correct thickness, then trims each one into perfectly uniform squares with a bamboo cutter, much like a cookie cutter.

After the demonstration, we worked on our own gold foil projects, rubbing gold leaf sheets on to images embossed with a gluey substance on paper cards, then brushing the excess gold dust away. 

the gold leaf square is placed over the image and rubbed 

After our hands-on experience, we wandered through a showroom/gift shop  exhibiting the many types of art where gold leaf is applied. 

a lacquered screen with gold leaf design, a miniature
samurai helmet with gold crest

close-up of the detail and intricate design

closeup of the gold leaf design

lacquered serving dishes embossed with gold leaf

At the end of the tour, we indulged in a different use for gold leaf, an icecream wrapped in gold leaf!

Yes, it is edible, tasteless, and clingy  - and I can now say that I have eaten gold!

gold leaf sheets used for icecream experiences

A final hands-on craft was the short origami lesson by Osamu.  Unfortunately Mt Fuji remained hidden while we were in Hakone and is apparently quite a rare sight. It was mainly overcast during our short stay in this hilly area.  However, while on the bus to our next destination, we had fun creating our own Mt Fuji to take home with us. 

Here are the steps  - fold a square of paper into quarters, rip, refold and voila! Mt Fuji appears:

Paper folding arrived in Japan from China via Korea around the sixth century. Called origami, this art form flourished in Japan and is now a traditional art form. One of the most famous origami designs is the crane, an auspicious symbol in Japanese culture. Legend has it that your dream will come true if you fold one thousand paper cranes. Today, the crane is universally associated with the symbol of peace because of a young Japanese girl, Sadako Sasaki.  

Sadako was an infant when the atom bomb was dropped on Hiroshima in WWII, and although she survived, by age 12 she was dying of leukemia. A friend told Sadako about the legend and she began folding paper cranes in the hope and belief that her wish to live would come true. 

Today, that story is immortalized in a children's book called Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes by Eleanor Coerr, a book that our girls read in elementary school.  Their class made origami paper cranes of their own to send to the Children's Peace Monument in Hiroshima. 

We visited the monument when in Hiroshima and saw the thousands of origami paper crane garlands at the memorial. 

Likewise, I noticed that at many temples we visited, there were sections with paper crane garlands hung as peace prayers and intentions. 

Postscript: In time, I finished these two placemats using the Yuzen project we worked on and the fabric I found in Kyoto.