 |
| Senso-ji Buddhist temple in Asakusa Tokyo, one of the oldest |
When it comes to eastern religions, I am ignorant. I have, in the past, read about the Dalai Lama and learned a little about Buddhist beliefs. Japan provided excellent opportunities to gain more insight and understanding into the country's two very different religions that coexist side-by-side, Shinto and Buddhism.
Europe is well known for its cathedrals, churches, and chapels which we saw plenty of during our various travels there. I tend to simply accept these places of worship as part of the landscape and history of every European city, town and village. It should therefore be no surprise that similarly in Japan there are shrines and temples a-plenty. In fact, I read that there are over 88,000 shrines and 77,000 temples spread throughout the country.
We visited several temples and shrines during this trip and learned about the beliefs and practices of both religions which, in essence, helped shape the Japanese ethos, culture and traditions, and continues to influence their current way of life.
It's what makes Japan, Japan.
So, what is the difference between the two religions practiced here, often both simultaneously? And what is the difference between a shrine and a temple?
Both Shinto and Buddhism have a complex pantheon of deities, not unlike the Greek and Roman gods of antiquity, and though the two religions may appear to be similar, there are differences. In a nutshell, Shinto is the indigenous ancient religion of Japan, while Buddhism is an established religion that arrived in Japan around the 6th century from India via China and Korea. The two religions continued to evolve into what we see today, but not without a slow and also tumultuous process during certain historical eras.
Today, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples exist side-by-side, just as the Japanese worship at both venues without taking sides.
The best frame of reference for me is that in western religions there are church buildings that are of Catholic and Protestant denomination. However, we remain either one or the other religion and do not blend the two beliefs in the same way that the Japanese do, nor do we attend both churches.
Shinto focuses on rituals, practices and a deep connection with nature and ancestral spirits. Shinto is based on Animism, the belief that all objects, places and creatures possess a spirit. The word Shinto means "way of the gods" and the estimated 8 million deities(!) are called kami. All natural phenomena (waterfalls, rocks, mountains, rivers, shorelines, sun, wind, etc.) are kami, related to Japan and its creation mythology, reminiscent in many ways of Greek, Roman, and Native American gods and spirits found in those creation myths. The number and types of deities, and the practices of honoring them, will be slightly different depending on the region and area of each local community.
There is no founder, dogma, or sacred scriptures.
Additionally, the emperors of Japan were considered living incarnations of Shinto gods. The legendary first emperor Jinmu is a direct descendant of the sun goddess Amaterasu, according to the official mythology. All subsequent descendants stem from the same lineage, including the present-day Emperor Naruhito, the 126th monarch.
Rituals and ceremonies related to these divine spirits of the kami are still performed today. Although most Japanese are no longer religious, Shinto practices remain deeply rooted in their lives. Customs based on Shinto rituals remain a part of life, and their annual festivals continue as important traditions to honor the various kami.
 |
| Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima, home to three deities that ensure the well-being of the imeprial family, guard the nation, and protect seafareres |
Shinto shrines, called jinja, are places of worship for the Japanese and a residence for the divine spirits of the kami. Shinto shrines can be found anywhere: in homes, villages, city street alleys, forests, roadsides and highways, and even factories or offices. They can be simple, tiny altars or elaborate buildings on beautifully groomed grounds with gardens. The first known Shinto shrine was built in approximately 478 and remains the spiritual home of the Japanese people and where the sun goddess Amaterasu is enshrined. The arrival of Buddhism in the 6th century introduced the idea of a permanent shrine buildings like we see today.
Shrines, whether large or small, are a place to connect with nature and find inner peace and harmony. Shinto shrine history tells that you don't need any institution to connect with nature and yourself.
One of the first shrines we saw was on our walk in Tokyo with Osamu. Hidden in a small alley street corner in the opulent Ginza district, we came to a tiny shrine, the Toyoiwa Inari Shrine. Inari shrines are marked by a pair of fox statues standing guard, and which are believed to be Inari's messengers. In Shinto belief, Inari is the god of rice and cultivation, an important and prominent feature in Japanese culture. As Osamu pointed out, rice is the soul of the nation.
Osamu gave us a quick lesson on how to worship correctly. There is always a money box at each shrine, so step one is to place a coin in the slot. Step two is to bow twice, then clap twice, pray, and bow once more before leaving. This shrine also has a bell that we rang once before bowing. The purpose of the bell and claps is to alert the kami and attract their attention.
As Osamu instructed: "It's always money first!" This made me smile because money talks in any religion - in the Catholic church there is a collection during Mass, and money is also deposited in the collection box at the candle stands before lighting a candle to pray for an intention. Whether Eastern or Western, religion involves payment when talking to the gods.
In the following days, as we continued to visit more shrines, I began to gain a better understanding and appreciation for the features specific to shrines.
Torii Gates
Built in 1182 by the first Shogun after the establishment of Japan's shogunate regime, the sacred grounds are reached by an impressive 1,476 ft long cherry tree-lined walkway. At the entrance stands an imposing 21-ft tall torii gate flanked by two fierce statues warding off evil spirits. During spring, the path to the shrine must look spectacular with the trees in full bloom. We learned that the correct way to walk along this path is by keeping to the left or right. Only the gods have the right to walk up the center. It is also polite to bow before crossing the gate and then again when leaving after turning around first to face the shrine.
Once we entered the grounds, we could see the elaborate worship hall at the top of the 61 steep steps. The honden, the most sacred building at a Shinto shrine, is the place for the enshrined kami and off limits to the general public. For specific important rites, the doors are opened and a high-ranking priest enters to leave offerings at the sacred altar where the kami is enshrined. In front of it is the haiden, the worship hall with the money box and where people come to pray. Whenever a shrine stands on or near a sacred mountain, tree, or other object that can be worshipped directly, there is no honden.
 |
| the main Hachimangu Shrine worhsip hall, the haiden, with a money box, and where people pray to the kami |
Perhaps the most famous Inari shrine is the Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, also known for its 10,000 vermillion torii gates.
 |
| Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto, one of Japan's most iconic shrines and main Inari shrine |
 |
| the torii gate entrance to Fushimi Inari Shrine |
Donor's names and the date of the donation are inscribed on the back of each gate. The larger the gate, the more elaborate the inscription. We observed an artist painting an inscription on a newly erected gate.
 |
| the trail of torii gates leading up to the top of sacred Mt Inari and back down again |
 |
| a tunnel of the smallest gates |
We snaked our way through the many tunnels of gates, from smallest to increasingly larger, along with hundreds of tourists and worshipers.
 |
| the larger torii gates, the tourists and worshippers, and the inscriptions of the donors and dates of donations |
Typically, there will be a couple of statues of fierce dogs or lions on either side of a torii gate marking the entrance to a shrine. Their purpose is to ward off evil spirits. At the Fushimi Inari Shrine, there are of course foxes guarding the sacred rice kami side altar.
The torii gate is part of the Hakone Shrine with an annex of Kuzuryu Shrine which honors the nine-headed dragon deity known as the protector of Lake Ashi. The Torii of Peace Gate or Heiwa no Torii, was built in 1952 to commemorate the Treaty of San Francisco that ended allied occupation in Japan. Somewhere hidden behind the cloud banks is Mt Fuji which unfortunately remained hidden from view that week.
Another torii gate that is unique and famous rises from the Seto Inland Sea off the island of Miyajima. Itsukishima Shrine, built in 593, means "island of worship." It is home to three deities that ensure the well-being of the imperial family, guard the nation, and protect seafarers.
Miyajima Island is compared with Mt St Michel in France and a display illustrates the two famous landmarks where high tides isolate both places of worship for several hours a day.
Timing one's visit with the tides is a good idea. At low tide it is possible to walk out to the torii gate to see it up close. The morning we were there, it happened to be full moon and high tide. The torii gate looked like it was floating in the water, but the shrine buildings, built on stilts, were also covered in water so we were unable to visit the shrine until the tide receded later in the day.
 |
| high tide and full moon resulted in a rather wet building |
Eventually when the tide receded, we were able to walk through the elaborate building halls. The views across the quadrangle showed the receding water level and the posts that raise the structures above water level, except at a high tide and full moon event when the water seeps inside the buildings.
And we were able to see the iconic torii gate from one of the hall windows on the other side. It's customary for boats coming to the island to worship to enter through the gate.
I was interested to understand how the torii gate was constructed in water. At an information center kiosk in the market area, there is a display showing construction details. The 54 ft tall posts rest on stone platforms atop pine stakes driven into the seabed. The 60-ton structure stands under its own weight. The uppermost roof section is filled with 7 tons of small stones to weigh it down.
 |
| miniature torii detailing the construction |
After visiting several shrines, I had a better understanding about the significance of torii gates and their role when entering Shinto shrines. It became easy to identify other Shinto shrines by the bright red structures that rise high above their surroundings as we traveled by bus and train.
There is one more important national landmark that we visited where the torii gates were left unpainted to blend in with their natural surroundings.
The Meiji Shrine in Tokyo, erected in honor of Emperor Meiji and his Empress Shoken, is located within a man-made forested area where about 100,000 trees were planted during construction of the shrine, all donated from various regions across the country. Here one enters the sacred shrine grounds through a massive unpainted torii gate. Standing at 39 feet tall, these Japanese cypress pillars are just under 4 ft in diameter. Their imposing size adds to the grandeur of a shrine dedicated to a beloved emperor who ruled in the 19th century, and who restored the monarchy thus ending the military shogunate rule of the feudal era. Under Emperor Meiji, Japan was brought into the 20th century, adopting modern customs and becoming a major world power.
The shrine buildings likewise were absent of the red we saw on previous shrine buildings.
 | ||
an imposing portal entrance to the main shrine section
|
 |
| the intricate architectural design elements |
In Gokayama, the historical thatch roofed village, there was a stone torii gate leading to the small village shrine. It must have been warm enough for the white snake that startled me on the steps to come out and sun itself. I hoped that I did not unwittingly offend that kami as it slithered away.
Purification Fonts
Shortly after entering sacred space through a torii gate, there will typically be a water font or a fountain with multiple cups with long handles. These are purification fonts for worshipers to purify themselves before continuing to the main hall to pray.
At the Hachimangu Shrine, Osamu demonstrated the cleansing ritual which we then followed.
First he took a ladle/cup to scoop water into it. Next, he poured some water over his left hand and rubbed it clean.
Then he poured water over the right hand. Next, he poured water into his left hand to rinse his mouth.
Lastly, he poured water over his left hand again, then held the scoop handle upright so that the remaining water trickled down the handle to clean the handle before placing the scoop back for the next person.
Purification is an important element in Shinto beliefs. I have read that some Japanese continue the tradition of sprinkling water at the gate of their home in the morning and the evening to purify their home environment.
The purification ritual reminded me that Catholics also use water to perform purification rites. Children are baptized with holy water to eliminate original sin, priests wash their hands before touching the host, and whenever you enter a church there is a holy water font close to the entrance for you to bless yourself with the sign of the cross first.
 |
| at Meiji Shrine |
 |
| at the Fushimi Inari Shrine |
Close to the entrance of large shrines there are stands of colorful sake barrels and in the case of the Meiji Shrine, also wine casks.
 |
| sake barrels at Hachimangu shrine |
 |
| wine barrels at Meiji Shrine |
The connection to the wine barrels at the Meiji Shrine is unique in that the Emperor enjoyed wine and embraced many western customs including drinking wine. The wineries in Burgundy France send bottles of wine every year to the Shrine and attend a dedication ceremony.
Of course, in the Catholic church, wine is also central to the worship ritual of mass.
Omikuji
Omikuji are the fortune papers attached to a string. For a small fee, one shakes a box until a stick with a number falls out, corresponding to a drawer with the same number. The fortune paper you draw from that drawer can be auspicious or ominous and the tradition is to fold the ominous fortunes and tie them to a string to leave the bad luck behind. The auspicious fortunes tend to be kept as a talisman by the person who picked it.
Although fortunes are readily available at any time, typically this is a favorite New Year's tradition to find out one's fortune for the coming year. Apparently today, omikuji fortunes are also available online! However the age-old tradition of shaking the box until the numbered stick falls out still remains a favorite pastime.
 |
| omikuji stand with paper fortunes at Hachimangu Shrine |
Ema
 |
| At the Hachimangu Shrine |
Ema are wooden prayer paddles, also an old Shinto tradition that evolved over time. Blank ema can be purchased for a small fee and inscribed with wishes, prayers, and messages. The ema is then hung on a rack on the shrine grounds for the gods to see and possibly intervene.
It's not unlike novenas that are prayed for special intentions to various saints or the Mother Mary.
 |
| At the Meiji Shrine |
Dance Hall
One other feature of Shinto shrines is the dance hall where sacred dances are performed by the priests during special celebrations. In the photo below, taken from the top of the steps at Hachimangu Shrine you can see the dance hall and beyond that the torii gate entrance to the shrine grounds we walked through earlier. 
I did further reading about Shinto priests and their history. Roles and status have evolved over time and historical era, from being simply the intermediaries between humans and the kami to an increasingly more elaborate hierarchy influenced somewhat by the introduction of Buddhism and adopting some of those practices. At one time the supreme priest/priestess position became a hereditary role of the Nakatomi family, then later held by the imperial family until WWII. Here is a link to more in-depth information about the history of the priesthood and the training required today: Shinto Priesthood
Currently, the main role of Shinto priests is to maintain the traditions, conduct ceremonies, maintain the shrines, and most importantly continue to serve as the intermediary of the kami to maintain harmony with humans. They are allowed to marry.
 |
| I was fascinated with the orderly arrangement of the priest's clogs along the doorstep |
 |
| wooden clogs, a flowing coat with billowing sleeves, and bowl shaped hat, a Shinto priest's vestments |
 |
| worshipers approaching the money box and priest behind the screen |
Shimenwa and Shide
 |
| Maruyama Inari shrine at Hachimangu Shrine in Kamakura |
 |
| sacred trees at Meiji Shrine |
Shimenawa and shide are also strung to demarcate sacred trees. At the Meiji Shrine, there is a pair of camphor trees tied together with the shimenawa. The trees represent the emperor and his wife, and the harmonious marriage of the couple, with the two trees growing side by side. The trees were planted in 1920 when the shrine was built and are considered to be sacred.
 |
| the sacred trees are supposed to bring good luck to those who visit, or at least we hope it does! |
 |
| this tree is also considered to be sacred at the Hachimangu Shrine |
Toro
Toro are Japanese lanterns, typically made of stone, metal or wood. They can be found at Shinto shrines and gardens, but also in temples. They were introduced from China via Korea in the 6th century and adopted as part of Shinto practices. They are used in sacred rituals both as a source of light and a spiritual guide connecting the physical and spirit world.
 |
| avenue of lanterns at the Itsukishima Shrine |
 |
| avenue of lanterns at the Fushimi Inari Shrine |
 |
| at Nagamachi Gardens, Kanazawa |
 |
| lantern in courtyard of original shogun house |
 |
| Kotojitoro Lantern at Kenrokuen Gardens |
 |
| posing on bridge with the iconic lantern |
 |
| lantern and koi pond at the bonsai tree museum |
 |
| the lantern in the courtyard at our host couple's home in Kanazawa, given to them as a wedding gift by her grandparents |
I found the traditions and symbolism associated with Shinto shrines quite fascinating. The shrines were peaceful places where people milled about quietly, some praying at various smaller shrine altars, others buying fortune papers or wooden eda. Worshipers were respectful as we wandered around the expansive grounds taking in the many aspects of what it means to visit these sacred places and mindful of the ritualized practices. A couple of times we saw families dressed in traditional kimono with a baby and assumed there would be a baptism.
Buddhism did not immediately take hold, particularly among the common people, since Shinto was already widely practiced in Japan. The arrival of Buddhism was seen as a threat although some ruling nobles were more open to Buddhism. This resulted in conflicts between the supporters and those who were against the influences of this new imported religion. But in 592, the Empress Suiko and Prince Shutoku promoted the expansion of Buddhism and in time it became a new state religion. Several temples were built, and Shintoism and Buddhism became integrated into Shinbutsu-shugo, a fusion that resulted in the establishment of shrine-temples and temple-shrines with each religion incorporating some aspects of the other.
When the Meiji Restoration period began in 1868, a new law ordered the separation of Shintoism and Buddhism and made Shinto the national religion. There followed an unsettled time when Buddhist temples were closed and some destroyed, their lands confiscated, and priests and nuns forcibly returned to lay life.
Today Shinto and Buddhism still retain a symbiotic relationship of interdependence and the separation of the two religions is therefore considered only superficial. However, there is a fundamental difference in the purpose and belief of the two religions. Shinto is based on the belief that if people dedicate themselves to the kami and lead honest lives, they will be blessed. In particular, it emphasizes family and community. The main purpose of Buddhism, on the other hand, is to strive to achieve personal growth and enlightenment or nirvana, a state of inner peace and wisdom. It teaches the path to enlightenment through contemplation, mindfulness, and moral conduct, and involves meditation, prayers, and chanting. Buddhism is based on the teachings of the founder and leader, Gautama Siddhartha, who later became known as Buddha, or "the awakened one."
Buddhism has a clear doctrine and rules. Buddhists follow sutras, canonical scriptures, that are an important part of Buddhist practice. At the Hase Temple we visited in Kamakura, there is a revolving octagonal bookshelf called a rinzo for storing and preserving sutras and sacred scriptures. It is believed that by turning the rinzo you can earn the same merit as by reading all the sutras, although it apparently is quite challenging to turn this bookshelf on one's own. 
Buddhist Deities
Buddhism has its many deities too. However, they are ranked according to the level of Enlightenment they have reached. Osamu shared a chart that explained the structure and roles of Buddhist deities and the types of statues we would see in temples.
There are three tiers of deities at different stages towards the path of enlightenment. Amida Nyorai, the celestial Buddha, is the highest state, a title given only to beings who reach enlightenment. The next tier below Nyorai is Bodhisattva or bosatsu, beings that are aspiring towards enlightenment. Once they complete their path to enlightenment, they gain the state of Nyorai. Those who stay at the bosatsu level do so to stay with humans to help them towards their path to enlightenment.
Myo is the fierce buddha that wards off evil demons and tries to save those who fail to follow along the path to enlightenment. There are also various guardian gods who provide a helping hand along the path towards enlightenment. I liken these to the myriad Catholic saints, each prayed to for specific intentions.
The most important space in any Buddhist temple complex is the sacred space where images of buddhas and bodhisattvas are kept and where important rituals are performed. We saw a wide variety of statues in the temples we visited.
The first buddha image we saw was in Kamakura, when we visited the Great Buddha Temple. Construction began in 1252 but after the temple building was destroyed a couple of times, it was not rebuilt again after the 15th century. So the bronze statue we now see sits out in the open elements and only the pillars remain that once were the stone foundations housing this 43-foot, 121-ton Buddha. If you look carefully, there is still some gold leaf remaining on his right cheek. We observed people approaching the statue to pray. The correct way to pray at a temple is similar to praying at Shinto shrines but without the clapping: bow, toss a coin into the collection box, ring a bell if there is one, press hands together in prayer in front of your chest and pray quietly, then bow again.
 |
| Great Buddha Kamakura and a worshiper praying |
Kannon can be shown holding a magic jewel, and at times she has many arms or as in this temple, eleven heads.
Along the path leading from the entrance up to the main Hase temple buildings, there are hundreds of Jizo statues. Jizo is the patron protector of children and the statues are placed there by parents to ensure a safe passage to the next life of their unborn child. They remain there for a year before being removed to make space for more statues.
Hase Temple also includes a cave with various statues in honor of the sea goddess, Benzaiten.
We continued our education on Buddhist statues over the next weeks. To someone raised in a monotheistic religion, keeping track of the various gods and their functions is rather overwhelming! I kept asking myself how one chooses a god to venerate let alone remember most of them.
Todaiji Temple in Nara is home to another Great Buddha statue who sits in the main hall, known for being one of the largest wooden structures in the world. The temple was built during the Nara Period, 710-784, when Nara was the capital. The colossal bronze statue was cast in 8 stages over 3 years and completed in 749.
 |
| Buddha is about 49 feet high |
Sanjusangen-do Temple in Kyoto has perhaps one of the most impressive collection of statues I have ever seen. These 1,000 standing statues of Kannon together with the seated gilded Kannon in the center are located in the 394-foot-long main hall of the temple, one of the longest wooden buildings in the world. It was jaw-dropping to see the standing statues, in fifty columns, each ten rows deep, flanking the seated Kannon like soldiers, each with over twenty pairs of arms offering aid to help save the world and those in need. There are also 28 statues of guardian deities with fierce expressions at the lowest level. Unfortunately, no photography is permitted but I was able to take a picture of the pamphlet cover.
Temple Gates, Gardens, and Halls
Entrances to Buddhist temples are also gates, sanmon, though more elaborate structures than torii gates. They too mark the boundary leading into sacred space. The gate leading into the Hase Temple grounds in Kamakura features the symbolic red lantern and pine tree. The red lanterns are symbols of enlightenment, illuminating the path from darkness to enlightenment. The color red is associated with good luck and fortune.
A pretty garden with koi ponds adds to the serene atmosphere upon entering the temple grounds located at the base of Mount Kamakura, with a path leading up to the imposing main temple buildings with their iconic curved roofs that are homes to the Buddhist deities.
 |
| temple buildings housing the eleven-headed Kannon and other deities |
 |
| beautiful architecture, iconic roofs, to house the gods |
 |
| view of Kamakura's Sagami Bay from the top |
There is an impressive inner gate one passes through called the Hozomon, to get to the main hall. Two towering Nio guardians flank either side, three enormous lanterns hang in the middle, while a gigantic pair of straw sandals hangs on the other side.
 |
| the enormous lanterns at the entrance to the Asakusa Temple main hall |
 |
| o-waraji, giant sandal |
These sandals are a charm against evil and according to Osamu, the scale compared to the human-sized sandals hanging below indicates the power of god.
Before reaching the main temple hall, the hondo, there is an incense burner, jokoro, more typical of Buddhist temples although occasionally some temples will also have a purification font as well. The smoke is believed to have a threapeutic effect if you breathe it in, and it can also make you intelligent. I approached the jokoro without hesitation and waved the smoke towards my face.
One other feature of temples is a pagoda. Here Buddhists pray, meditate, and pay homage to Buddha, monks, and deities. The primary purpose is to house sacred relics, often believed to be the remains or possessions of the Buddha or revered monks. It was interesting to learn this because in many of the cathedrals and churches in Europe holy relics and sometimes entire embalmed corpses of saints are also housed and often also on view. Senjo-ji Temple has a pagoda:
 |
| Nakamise Dori street leading to the Hozomon gate |
 |
| smaller food stalls off to one side inside the temple grounds |
 |
| Tokyo's oldest stone bridge built in 1618 |
The Todaiji Temple in Nara, Kyoto, is most impressive, and one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples. It was built in the Nara period, 710-794, at the behest of Emperor Shomu. The temple serves as a place of prayer for peace and affluence on earth, and as a center of Buddhist doctrinal research. The Emperor Shomu was faced with troubled times: for ten years there were struggles for political authority, there were smallpox epidemics, and he faced various other rebellions. The emperor believed that religion was the only means to heal such troubled times, seek peace for the nation and prosperity for the people. To reaffirm his devotion to the Buddhist faith, in 741 he issued an edict to establish a national system of monasteries. In 743 he issued an edict to construct a monumental image of Buddha as an intention to pray for the peace of the nation as a whole and for the people in each province. The Great Buddha now residing in the hall was completed in 749 and in 752, the huge 157-ft tall, 187- ft long, and 164- ft wide hall was completed.
The imposing gate is a fitting entrance to the grand hall:
The first view of the grand hall as we continued along the path:
 |
Mudras or hand gestures are sacred and symbolic in Buddhism, used in religious ceremonies, dances and meditation. The raised right hand means that there is no need to be afraid. The left hand with palm up indicates that your wishes will be granted. It must have had a powerful effect at that time of discord and epidemics.  |
| the octagonal bronze lantern in front of the main hall |
An interesting feature of this temple is that it is also a deer park. The grounds teem with deer that are protected and also well fed by the visitors who are encouraged to buy them special snacks sold at kiosks. Legend has it that a mythological god arrived in Nara on a white deer to guard the capital. Ever since then, the deer have been regarded as messengers of the gods and heavenly animals that protect the city and country. The deer are Sika or spotted deer, also known as "bowing" deer because they sometimes bow their heads before being fed. They are quite an attraction.
Likewise, when we were visiting Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima, there were deer freely wandering about, and one had to be careful because they are known to start chewing on clothing or anything you may be holding in your hand. In fact, one of the members on our tour had to tug at his shirt to get it away from the attacking deer. Being messengers of the gods, they are tolerated. Osamu mentioned that at certain times of the year, the males have their antlers cut back.
Originally the family land of an aristocrat, the estate and gardens were taken over by the area shogunate. In 1397, a third shogun took it over and built a palace which became the center of politics and culture and was used to welcome the emperors of Japan and trading partners from China. After his death in 1408, it became a temple according to his will. The Golden Pavilion is not accessible to the public inside, yet remains one of the most visited sites, the large crowds making it difficult to find a good spot to take photos. I was lucky.
The small Fudo-do Hall is the oldest building within the temple grounds. It is home to a very secret buddha, Fudo Myoo, viewed only twice a year. He is known for helping those with illnesses above the neck, particularly the eyes, and a favorite god for people with visual impairments or those who suffer eye strain from computer games or computers.
 |
| the bell pull, the red lantern and the money box all standard features of a temple |
 |
| the incense urn in front of the temple |
 |
 |
| the temple that is not the norm |
 |
| one of many tatami rooms where visitors can come to meditate |
Perhaps one of the best-known features of this temple is the Sogenchi Garden:
The Arashiyama Mountains behind the gardens are referred to as "borrowed scenery," and form a pretty backdrop to the carefully placed and maintained gardens with its koi pond, rock features, etched gravel, and trees. Despite the crowds, one can feel the calm and serenity here.
Today, both religions, Shinto and Buddhism, are practiced side-by-side. Japan's three great annual festivals - Kanda Matsuri, Tenjin Matsuri and Gion Matsuri - are all Shinto festivals. The busiest travel period of the year, during which families return home to pray to the spirits of their ancestors, is the Buddhist holiday Obon.
 |
| Buddhist altar |
Often both shrines, the kamidana altar for the kami, and the butsudan Buddhist memorial altar, can be found in homes. Our home-host couple had both altars in their home. They demonstrated for us how they begin each day by praying at the Buddhist memorial altar. They light incense, then recite part of the sutra together. They also place offerings at the Shinto shrine in memory of their parents whose photos hang on the wall. Our host mentioned how each morning they have a short "chat" with the parents first before proceeding to breakfast, thus remembering them and honoring their spirits.
 |
| Shinto shrine |
A family grave consists of a stone monument with a place for flowers, incense and water at the front, and a crypt underneath for the cremated ashes. One family gravesite will house several generations in urns below ground. The headstones are an arrangement of five stone blocks called the gorin-to, in the traditional shape of a pagoda, and represent the five elements: earth, water, fire, air and space. The family name is inscribed on the front of the headstone with the individual names and dates engraved on the side. In some areas it is customary to have the names of the living members in red then remove the paint once the member dies.
The wooden posts at the gravesites are sotoba, inscribed with the Buddhist-assigned name of the deceased by a monk, and a verse from Buddhist scripture. Each anniversary, a new sotoba is added.
These red spider lillies caught my attention as we were leaving the cemetery. Called higanbana in Japanese, these flowers herald the arrival of fall. They are often planted near graves as a symbolic gesture to guide the spirits of the deceased.
I saved the best for last. One of the highlights of this trip for me was the Zen experinece we had with a Buddhist monk in Arashiyama, Kyoto. The Senko-ji Temple is nestled high on the Arashiyama mountainside and is reached by climbing up 200 uneven steps. Here, we all took turns ringing the large bell before entering the visitor hall where the monk Obayashi-san met us.
With Osamu interpreting, the monk talked to us about the introduction of Buddhism to Japan through Korea in the 6th century. He continued to explain that the main objective of Buddhism is to reach enlightenment to acquire Buddha state. He himself studied at Tenryuji, the Temple of the Heavenly Dragon, which we visited earlier. Because he likes nature, the monk agreed to come to this remote post in this poorer area. He explained that the purpose of Zen meditation is to bring you to a middle or neutral state, one that focuses on simplicity, putting aside the ego of "me" in consideration for others. It was rather startling to hear him say that in essence we as individuals are nothing.
Buddhism values every encounter as if it is the last, always bringing you into the present moment.
He took time to explain the symbolism of the outfit he was wearing: the tan outer garment, worn askew, reflects the garments worn by monks in India who were so poor they collected cloths from the street and sewed them together like patchwork to cover themselves. The black robe is lightweight and represents the hot Indian summer. The white kimono below that is the color worn in Japan and provides warmth in the cold winters. And winters here can be very cold and snowy judging by the photos he showed of the temple during several winters and without central heating! The orange rope also represents the colors of India.
He led us through a Zen meditative practice that included a breathing pattern to counts of one, then two, all the way up to ten, with eyes closed. He rang a bell three times and on the third ring the practice begins until he rings the bell to end the practice. The second time, we had to keep our eyes open. This meditation can also be done while walking which he described as "you see but don't see." While we focused on our breathing and meditated, he walked around and blessed us if we so chose by lowering our heads with hands together in prayer to accept the blessing. He then tapped each shoulder twice across the back using a wooden stick. The purpose is to stay in the moment, prevent sleepiness and not lose concentration.
Meanwhile during this state of meditative silence we could hear monkeys squealing in the treetops around us, which was rather amusing.
The Higashiyama Sugahara Shrine in the teahouse district in Kanazawa:
This pagoda, known as The Tower of the Great Merciful Mother, is at the Kosanji Temple Museum on Ikuchijima Island, Hiroshima.
Kosanji Temple Museum was an interesting place to visit mostly for its collection of temple replicas from around Japan and the story behind them. Founded in 1936 by the successful and wealthy industrialist Kosanji, the temple was built as a family temple in dedication to his late mother. The entire complex was constructed over a period of 30 years. There are 20 buildings in total. Kosanji eventually gave up all worldly possessions to enter the priesthood in gratitude to his mother. The temple is known as "A Temple for Mothers" to express gratitude to all mothers of the world. I read that Kosanji's mother's remains are enshrined in the pagoda.
The entrance is quite colorful and untypical of the temples we visited. The buildings beyond the gate were equally surprising, and quite gaudy compared to the temples we visited.
The detailed elements are almost reminiscent of European Baroque ornamentation:
There is a 49-foot Kannon statue on the grounds:
There is also an entrance to a grotto with paths that wind past hundreds of statues including several macabre paintings of hell:
