Spending Time in Gilroy, California

After visiting Yosemite National Park we picked a spot close to San Juan Bautista, where we will be joining the SoCal Alpine group tomorrow. 
And it just so happens that there is an Elks Lodge close by right here in Gilroy, the Garlic Capital of the World. The lodge is next to a golf course high on a hill, and is also a venue for weddings and banquets. There are 8 sites with water and electric hookups and although we were warned that the RV lot fills up quickly, there are only five of us here. One morning I noticed rather large birds strutting across the parking lot. They were wild turkeys that live around here. They didn't seem at all concerned about us. I wonder if they realize that Thanksgiving is approaching!

With rain in the forecast, it was a good time to catch up on blog posts, do some shopping and house work, and finish a few baby sewing projects that need to be completed before we fly off to meet our grandson in December. 

burp pads, bibs, and blankets to welcome our grandson

There is a song about California and rain. It goes something like this: 
Seems it never rains in southern California
Seems I've often heard that kind of talk before
It never rains in California
But girl don't they warn ya
It pours, man it pours....
And man did it pour! We thought we were still in rainy Seattle when the heavens let loose a couple of times, once solidly through the night, and once a few days later during the morning. The rest of the time, sprinkles landed softly for a few minutes off and on, but not enough to stop us from doing anything outside.

Ray, their friend Kate, Leda and Michael 

After we arrived in Gilroy, we realized that our Alpine buddies, the Wynns, live close by, so we spent a couple of great days with them. Had dinner with them in their lovely home one evening, and did some wine tasting the following day at Sarah's Winery on a pleasant sunny afternoon after the rain passed. Gilroy's claim to fame may be its extensive garlic production, but vineyards are stiff competition it seems, and there are many boutique wineries scattered around the greater area. Sarah's was fun, and even I, who am not much of a partaker of alcohol in general, swirled the vino, breathed in the bouquet, and tasted the wines being offered that day. 

along a trail among the redwoods

On another cloudy but rain-free day, we went exploring the trails in Mount Madonna County Park. 
It's described as "one of the most majestic of Santa Clara County's regional parks and recreation areas." I can see why.
Most of the park is redwood forest and most of the trails wind through these tall trees. 

Perched high on a hill, the views from the park overlook the Santa Clara valley to the east, and Monterey Bay to the west. 

clouds hanging over Monterey Bay to the west

We followed the road up to the top and looked down into the Santa Clara Valley. 

Santa Clara Valley

We also drove through one of the many campgrounds and noticed that a large motorhome was parked in a site. The road leading up to the park is quite narrow and very winding yet this RV had managed to make it up there. 

Tomorrow we drive the short distance to San Juan Bautista where we will stay for a week, having more fun with our Alpine friends. There will be 27 coaches at the rally. And as we have come to learn, it will be a lot of fun, with socializing, eating, happy hours, and a field trip to Monterey. It's Senior Camp at its very best;)

Next stop: Gilroy

On a sunny California morning, we left Oakhurst for our next stop in Gilroy. 

 preparing to leave Oakhurst Elks campground

route 41 southbound

Alpine took us along route 41 south, through winding twisty sections most of the way. The only way to get through the never-ending velvety hilly mounds in this region is to drive through and around them. Roads are narrow and twisty. And the scenery is pretty. Quite dry at this time of year, but still pretty.

We turned west on to route 145 to Madera, a sizeable town. Then merged on to route 99 at a bit of a challenging intersection, traveling north on 99 until the route 152 turnoff to Los Banos.

Here we crossed the flat valley, all gold and beige and very dry. We passed ranches with coal black cattle. I felt sorry for them, wondering what they could possibly find in the dry grass that is tasty.

The San Joaquin River flows down the valley, and must be harnessed to support the orchards and the almond trees in the region. The trees were now dormant, having completed their growing cycle, and the leaves looked dry and spent. Several fields were newly plowed, the soil a dark rich brown. We passed two large cotton fields, a surprise to see the white cotton balls on the plants here. I associate cotton fields with the south.

 

Once we crossed I-5, we started to climb towards the Diablo Range. Once again the topography changed to the velvety, gold colored hilly mounds, many with oak trees covering them. We passed by the KOA where back in 2013 we stopped for the night on a merciless 104F day, glad to be off the road, seeking the largest tree in the campground to park under in our previous Rialta RV. We bought ice-creams at the office store then, and couldn’t eat them fast enough before they started to melt in the heat.

Thankfully it was not as hot today. I wonder how folks can live here, especially during the brutal summers.

starting the climb at the San Luis Reservoir Recreational area

By late afternoon we drove up the very steep hill to find a spot at the Gilroy Elks. The Elks Lodge is perched high on a hilltop, overlooking a golf course. It’s pretty and the few sites here are fairly level. We will hang out here for a few days. 

We will explore the town of Gilroy, which is the garlic capital of the world. About 11 miles from our turnoff into the town, we drove through the heady aroma of garlic and laughed. It is that potent!

The other item on the to-do list is to figure out our jack issue. After the unsuccessful leveling episode in Mariposa, and the creaks and straining that ensued, something stopped functioning as it should and needs attention.

Well, that is life on the road in a house that gets shaken up like an earthquake as you drive from one destination to the next, particularly on some of the California roads in their current condition. Or if you park your home on wheels in places that are not level and it creates issues with the leveling jacks.
Life on the road continues to be an adventure.

Yosemite National Park

There simply are no appropriate adjectives to adequately describe what we saw these past couple of days. Gazing at the scenery leaves one quite speechless and awestruck. Taking in the sights is more akin to a feeling of reverence and incredulity at the scale and sheer magnitude of such a natural phenomenon. If anyone were to ask what it is that we viewed, the simple answer is: gigantic rocks, waterfalls, and a deep valley. But it's the combination of all three that is simply astounding in scale, symmetry, and beauty. I have seen many spectacular mountain ranges and unusual rock formations, yet Yosemite stands in a class of its very own.

No wonder 4 million people from all over the world come to see and experience Yosemite National Park every year.

Route 41 into the park is twisty and curvy with one hairpin bend following another. We climbed ever higher, to 4,000 feet, then 5,000 feet, along the narrow road hugging the hillsides, through forest dotted with gigantic boulders, sheer drops below us. 

hugging the curves high above the valleys below

Eventually we approached a tunnel.

The scene on the other side looked more like a painting than anything real. At Artist Point, the overlook, everyone gazed in hushed wonder and snapped multiple photos to capture the moment forever. 

The view was simply wondrous. We were gazing at El Capitan to our left, Half Dome(the spiky peak) in the center at the back, and Bridalveil Falls on the right (the thin white ribbon against the dark rock face). The burnished tree tops added to the October fall scene, although we later learned that unfortunately millions of the Ponderosa Pines in California are actually dying off because of the warmer temperatures and lack of rainfall. 

El Capitan is the iconic vertical rock standing tall at 7,573 feet, the result of glacial carving over a million years ago. El Capitan means "the chief" or "the captain", named by the Mariposa Battalion when they explored the valley in 1851. It's a granite monolith of gargantuan proportions, extending 3,000 feet from base to summit. Rock climbers love scaling El Capitan. The first person to do this was Warren Harding in 1958. 

Half Dome in the setting sun

The other amazing rock is Half Dome, also granite, and best known for its distinct shape. One side looks like a knife sliced cleanly through to leave a sheer smooth face on this rounded dome. From whichever angle we viewed this marvel, it was an incredible sight and quite mind-boggling to fathom the forces in nature that could create such a cleanly carved face on this massive rock. Half Dome rises 4,737 feet above the valley floor and stands 8,000 feet above sea level. 

Bridalveil Falls

Yosemite is famous for its many tall waterfalls. Spilling over the face of these towering rock shelves, streams plunge down 100's of feet. Even at this far distance they can be seen and also heard in the vast stillness. 

We stopped to view Bridalveil Falls up close. By October the falls typically have dried up to a trickle and rush again after the spring melt. We were lucky to see them this full. 
Bridalveil Falls plunges 617 feet in one single drop. 

The walk up to the falls was pretty. We watched the Bridalveil Creek bubbling over rocks and through a forested section.

Standing at the base of the falls surrounded by the gigantic monoliths makes me realize we are pretty insignificant by comparison to the forces that created all of this. 

one of several sheer faced sides in the park

Yosemite Village, elevation 4,000 feet, is the most popular area of the National Park, well laid out with campgrounds, the Information Center, and various stores and restaurants. Even at this time of year, in late October and in the middle of the week, there were hundreds of visitors and we heard many different languages spoken. There was a long wait at the Information Center to inquire about hikes and viewpoints.

As an aside, back in 2002 we camped in the Upper Pines campground in our Eurovan Pop-top camper. It was a great experience then, made more memorable when a bear loped past our camper one evening, while we watched from inside. He was a big guy (and yes of course I was terrified!). The folks in the site directly across from us had pulled in late and were getting on with setting up and making dinner. Their large cooler was on the picnic bench, and they were sitting across on the other bench starting a fire in the pit. The bear quite casually lumbered up to the cooler and started to raid it until the folks turned around and saw him across the table from where they were sitting. The woman grabbed a couple of pots and pans and started banging them together to scare the bear off, which then ran straight for our site and past our camper. 
We had watched a movie at the Information Center that afternoon and learned a lot about bears in Yosemite and what intelligent creatures they are. They have learned how to get into closed cars and vans if they spot coolers and know that they will find food inside. They can even recognize a bread bag. The movie showed a bear getting what he wants when he spies it: the bear climbed on top of the minivan and jumped up and down until the doors popped open, then proceeded to help himself to the contents of the cooler. 
My fear was that the size and shape of our pop-top camper resembled an extra large cooler in the bear's mind! After all, the top part of the camper van pops up and it would have been easy for Mr Bear to climb aboard. Bears also have an extremely keen sense of smell so, according to the rule, everything remotely scented, including all food, had to be stored in the bear boxes at each campsite. 
Thankfully 14 years later, I didn't need to worry about a bear. Our campsite at the Elks in Oakhurst, about 50 miles from the Yosemite Valley, suited me perfectly. However, the experiences these past couple of days are even more memorable.

We had a spectacular view of the Yosemite Valley from Glacier Point (elevation 7,214 feet). The eight-mile long valley, up to a mile wide, was carved by several glacial events, and also erosion. Looking down into the valley from this height of 3,200 feet above the valley floor was amazing. The village below us looked like a miniature. I could just make out tiny buildings and cars in parking lots. 

looking down from 7 thousand feet at part of the valley floor, with the Merced River meandering through

This wide angle shot (courtesy of Wikipedia) gives a better perspective of the valley floor in its entirety. It also shows Half Dome with its sheer sliced off section.

world renowned Yosemite Falls

Yosemite Falls is the tallest in the US, plunging 2,425 feet from top to base in 3 stages.  The Upper Falls drop a staggering 1,430 feet, followed by a series of 5 more falls in the middle, and finally the Lower Falls drop another 320 feet. 

We were able to view the Upper and Lower Falls from a viewing area in the village. 

Possibly the best view of Yosemite Falls seen in all three segments was from the vantage point atop Sentinel Dome. 
We hiked the short 1.8 mile trail and up to the very top of Sentinel Dome (elevation 8,123 feet). I huffed and puffed my way up the final climb but made it to the very top. 

The views were jaw-dropping spectacular, a bird's eye-view of the surrounding Sierra peaks in all directions. 
It was truly an incredible sight, and I can now say that I was standing "on top of the world, looking down on creation."

We sat having our lunch while gazing out towards the falls and in the stillness of the afternoon, we could hear the rushing water. It was a most memorable experience. 

 lunch at 8,123 feet elevation with Yosemite Falls in the distance

And here is the dome we climbed to the top, all 322 feet of it.

Sentinel Dome

hiking back down Sentinel Dome, one careful step at a time

We saw several more breathtaking views from other vantage points along Glacier Point Rd drive. The grandeur of the Sierra Nevada range will remain imprinted in memory.

Washburn Point view of the 3 Brothers peaks

Half Dome

view of Yosemite Falls from Sentinel Dome

Nevada Falls on the other side of Half Dome

Moving on towards Yosemite

I-5 southbound, olive trees in neat rows

Saturday morning we headed out of Redding, down I-5 and on to Lodi. It's the same route we have taken a number of times at different times of the year. At this time of year, most of the crops were already harvested and the farmers were busy tilling the land in preparation for the next crop rotation.

Through Corning, the olive capital, the road was lined with miles of now-familiar olive trees. I spied branches laden with bright green olives. Later we passed neat rows of fruit trees and also vineyards. 

At Sacramento we continued south on route 99, parts of which were newly paved and others the same bumpy, juddering road we remember from before. Our home on wheels sure rattles and lurches as we drive along.

We stayed at the Lodi Elks, which was just fine for an overnight stop. It is located in a nice neighborhood adjacent to a golf course. There was a wedding reception at the club that evening and Michael saw the bride arriving in a 1954 Chevy truck in immaculate condition. We ogled it when we went for a short walk through the neighborhood.

driving across the flat valley floor

The next morning we were off again, back on route 99 south bound, then east on route 140 towards Yosemite. We drove across the valley, flat and dry as a bone. 

Eventually we approached the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas, and began our climb up and through pretty, treed landscape. It surprised me to see so many ranches and homes in this remote, hilly area.

winding our way through and around the hills

I enjoy seeing old barns along our route

climbing higher and higher

the Sierra Nevadas up ahead

pretty scenery and winding roadways

entering Mariposa, one of the towns along the 49-ers gold route 

We decided to give the Mariposa County Fairgrounds a try for an overnight. Tom Polk had recommended the fairgrounds after attending an Alpine rally there. Hmmm...  when Tom mentioned a few challenges with leveling, had we known exactly how challenging it would be, perhaps we would have skipped this place. The grassy area designated for RV's is next to the Mining Museum within the fair grounds. There is water and electric hookups for $30 a night. But the area is very sloped and it was difficult to choose the least sloped site. After encouraging the jacks to extend as far as they possibly could go, and the Alpine creaking and popping as it strained to level itself, Michael realized that the back jacks were not holding and both eventually slowly retracted. Of course I was in a flat panic over all the things that can go wrong including damage to the suspension. He tried leveling a second time, but the jacks protested loudly at being over-extended and continued to retract, popping and groaning. Then they slowly retracted again. We were not able to level Alpine and also did not put out the slides. And the jacks will need to be looked at and possibly repaired or even replaced.

I was not a happy camper.

But we stayed the night, and thankfully the busy road and traffic quieted down. We were however periodically awakened by lightning flashes and grumbling thunderbolts throughout the night. The little bit of rain that did fall hardly left a trace.

Alpine with Jeep hooked up and ready to move on to Oakhurst

The next morning we packed up and headed on to Oakhurst to the Elks lodge there. 

It was a short half hour ride through more twisty and winding route 41. The scenery was pretty, a continuation of hills and valleys, dotted with trees.

the road towards Oakhurst

The drive up to the lodge was up a steep hill, unavoidable in this very hilly region. The lower RV area at the Elks is at least more level. The rear jacks remained a problem and did not hold. Eventually both retracted, and the left back jack made its same groaning and popping noise. So, once again, we remained un-leveled, though with less of a slope this time so that it didn't feel like we were sleeping with our feet higher than our heads. We did not extend the slides either.

Our plan is to visit Yosemite National Park during the next two days, approaching the park through the south entrance along route 41. The weather promises to be sunny so we look forward to good views and a couple of hikes along the trails.

Lassen Volcanic National Park

We were able to visit only a part of Lassen Volcanic Park today. The storms this past weekend dumped enough snow to close the road through the park. Our plan was to approach the park from the north entrance, continue through the park and out the south entrance. Instead, we could only drive about ten miles into the park at the Manzanita Lake area. 

The day was clear and sunny and at least we were able to see Lassen peak in all its glory.

Lassen peak reflected in Manzanita Lake

We watched a video at the information center where we learned a lot about this region and the volcanoes here. Lassen Peak is one of the largest plug dome volcanoes in the world and the southernmost in the Cascade Range. The other three types of volcanoes - shield, composite and cinder cone - are also found right here. Lassen's last eruptions were between 1914 and 1921, with its largest explosion on May 22, 1915. It occurred to me that May must be a popular month for eruptions because Lassen's cousin to the north, Mt St Helens, erupted on May 18, 1980. 
We drove the ten miles to the Devastated Area where we had a great view of the gaping crater after the blast. 

the crater from the eruption and resulting lava flows in the Devastated Area

Back at Manzanita, we hiked along the trail around the lake and had spectacular views of both Lassen and the adjacent Chaos Crags.

Chaos Crags & Lassen's perfect dome

At least we were able to partially celebrate Lassen's 100th birthday as a National Park. We will need to continue the celebration on another visit to see the rest of the park.

Whiskeytown Lake, Crystal Creek Falls, and Shasta Dam

Whiskeytown Lake

Today, on a sunny and bright day, we went exploring landmarks north of Redding. 

Whiskeytown Lake, a reservoir formed by Whiskeytown Dam on Clear Creek, is located in the Whiskeytown-Shasta-Trinity National Recreation area. This is a beautiful region of hills and valleys of the Klamath Mountains.
As with much of California's past history, it was gold that attracted folks to this area in 1848. And as is the predictable pattern, once European settlers arrive, there follow lasting changes to the landscape and surroundings as they set up permanent settlements. The rest becomes history. 
Settlers like Camden and Levi first built a one-room cabin and mining operation, sawmill, and water ditches. A century later, with the need for irrigation water for California's Central Valley, the Whiskeytown Dam was constructed to hold the water diverted from the Trinity River through an eleven-mile tunnel.  The water is released through a downstream hydro-electric powerplant and into the Sacramento River.  When the dam was filled in 1963 it formed the Whiskeytown Lake which flooded the site of old Whiskeytown.  The lake is now a popular recreational area for camping, hiking, boating, swimming and fishing. 

Next stop was the Glory Hole, the affectionate term for Whiskeytown's overflow spillway. In 1935 the Central Valley Project began to move water from northern California to drier areas further south. A 10.5 mile-long 17.5 foot-diameter tunnel was blasted through solid granite to divert water from the Trinity River to the Sacramento River system. 

spillway with a reader board depicting the underground tunnels

  
In 1963, President Kennedy dedicated Whiskey Dam, two months before he was assassinated. There is a memorial plaque at the spillway dedicated to him.

Kennedy Memorial

On the way to Crystal Creek Falls there is a rather quirky and colorful cemetery. We stopped to take a look. Before the dam was constructed, the original cemetery of the gold mining settlement was located in the original Whiskeytown, now under the lake. The graves were exhumed and moved to their present location in 1963 prior to the lake's filling.
This is not a somber place. Far from it. Walking through the cemetery felt more like going on a treasure hunt. We were amused by the various adornments and whirligigs that decorated the majority of the grave sites. Several also had rather funny sayings. There were the traditional tombstones with bible verses, but the unexpected color and humor added a tone of quirkiness to this unique cemetery that was given a second chance at remembering its deceased residents. 
 
As for the name Whiskeytown, the park ranger at the Information Center told us that the name stuck when a snake spooked a pack mule carrying a barrel of whiskey, which fell off and rolled into the creek. Another source claims that the miners at Whiskeytown could drink a barrel of the whiskey per day. Take your pick;it's all folk legend which adds to the colorful past of this area and makes for interesting stories.

Crystal Creek Falls, our next stop, was pretty. At only 40 feet high, it was more like a cascading river dropping down over a series of stepped rocks. Apparently it is a popular spot for swimming during the summer.



Our last stop for the day was at Shasta Dam. This 602-feet high, concrete arch-gravity marvel is quite a sight. It is the 8th tallest dam in the US and the largest reservoir in California. Its function is for long-term water storage, flood control, and hydroelectricity. Begun in 1937 and completed ahead of schedule in 1945, the building project provided welcome jobs during and after the depression. 
We walked across to the other side and back, enjoying the beautiful view of Mt Shasta to the east.