OUR JOURNEY TO CHURCHILL and BACK AGAIN

Our next leg of the trip would be taking us further north, through boreal forests and into the subarctic region of Canada, to our final and exciting destination of Churchill on the Hudson Bay. This is the whole reason for the trip - to see the beluga whales and if we are lucky, polar bears and perhaps the northern lights. 

The plan was to drive from Winnipeg to the town of Thompson, where the road literally ends, leave our motor homes there at McCreedy Campground, then travel by overnight train to Churchill. The journey from Winnipeg to Thompson would take two days, covering 281 miles the first day to Grand Rapids, and the final 206 miles the following day to Thompson. 

That was the original plan.

When we first gathered as a group for dinner at the start of the rally in North Dakota, Tom, our host and organizer, welcomed us and during his short speech he mentioned that on a trip of this length and distance, it would be a good idea to keep an open mind, stay flexible, and expect that there would be occasional "spikes in the road." Whether vehicle related issues or trip itinerary issues, we should expect that there could possibly be some challenges that might crop up. 

remote wilderness of Manitoba

Well, we hit our first "spike" on the leg from Winnipeg to Grand Rapids where we were scheduled to dry camp for the night at the Esso Truck Stop parking lot. Shortly after arriving in Grand Rapids, a Canada Highway official arrived to advise the group that there was an active fire about 20 miles ahead along the route we would be taking the next day, and that there was a strong possibility that the road could be closed at any time for an indefinite period. If that happened it would jeopardize all the reservations and arrangements for Thompson and Churchill, the main goal of this trip.  After a pow-pow between the hosts, the Canada highways official, and several from the group, it was agreed that it would be best to travel beyond the active fire while the road was still open and find a spot along the way to pull over for the night. In this remote and sparsely populated region, towns are few and far between, and there certainly are no RV parks that could accommodate 20 large motor homes. 

Already tired from the long, slow drive to Grand Rapids, we all continued on in slow convoy, mindful of the bumpy and uneven road surface, and eventually drove into and past the area where the fires were actively burning.  The smoke was quite heavy in some spots and we each wore masks.   

glad to be off the road finally -
our overnight camping spot in Wabowden

The long straight road, single lane in each direction, had only a narrow gravel shoulder on each side.  There was nowhere to pull over or stop.

Eventually, we approached an intersection with a truck fueling facility on one corner, and a small convenience store and gas station on the other.  Each was surrounded by a large gravel parking lot, so one after another our group of 20 motorhomes pulled in and parked.  We got the owner's approval to stay the night. It had been a long and tiring drive. Our original 280-mile drive turned into a 417-mile trip!  We had been on the road for over 8 hours, and everyone was exhausted.  We must have created quite a sight because a few cars stopped to take photos and videos of us!  

our 20-coach convoy in the Manitoba wilderness

the owner with her grandchildren who work at the restuarant, dressed
as Olive Oyl and Popeye

One spike averted, the next morning another spike occurred!  Scott & Joyce Schaffer's coach would not start due to a failed starter motor.  While the rest of the group drove the remaining distance to McCreedy Campground in Thompson, Scott and others were able to find a repair shop and arrange for their coach to be towed and repaired during the next week while we were all in Churchill.  

That evening we were treated to dinner at Popeye's Burgers, a popular little restaurant that was started in the 50s. The owner, now retired, came over specially to meet Tom and the rest of us.

enormous and tasty hamburgers and fries

They say things happen in threes.  Spike #3 appeared early the next morning.  We were scheduled to have an open day to explore Thompson and pack a suitcase for an overnight train to Churchill.  The news buzzed through our group that there had been a train derailment the previous night on the rail spur between Thompson and the junction with the main line between Churchill and Wabowden.  The line was blocked and would take many days to clear.  Once again, our Churchill planned arrangements and reservations were in jeopardy. 

Thanks to Tom's skillful and speedy reconfiguring and with the cooperation of several local folks including the owner of the campground, who also happens to be the mayor of Thompson, arrangements were made for us to fly to Churchill. We all had to scramble to pack and be ready to leave by noon.  But we all pulled it off and were ready for the arranged taxis to pick us up from the campground and transport us to the airport while the mayor's son ported our luggage over in his truck.  

It was an amazing feat to change travel plans at the last minute, charter a plane, organize accommodations for an earlier arrival, round up our group of 40, organize transfers to the airport and find a pilot, a plane, and staff. The customer service was truly excellent. Manitobans, without a doubt, are hospitable, accommodating, and friendly. The mayor was at the airport to personally see us all off and we know that extra staff were called in to help expedite the ticketing and boarding process so that we could continue with our planned itinerary.

Calm Air flies between Thompson and Churchill regularly

aerial view of the tundra landscape approaching Churchill

A few hours later we landed in Churchill, a day early.  A bus picked us up from the airport in Churchill and delivered us to our hotels. Since we arrived a day early, the original hotel could not accommodate all of us and 8 couples volunteered to stay at a different hotel for one night. 

But we had all made it to Churchill. 

We spent the next three days touring this small town of about 800 year-round residents, the majority being indigenous (56%).  Located on the shores of Hudson Bay, on the fringes of the Arctic, Churchill is accessible only by plane or train. Despite its bleak, weather-beaten landscape, Churchill is a fascinating place. 

wolf statues along the main street

main street Churchill

There is one main paved road that connects the town with the airport, there are 13 residential streets, and the few cars, trucks and tourist buses share roads with snowmobiles and ATVs. The Town Complex houses all the community needs under one roof which makes it very handy during the long, brutal winter. Our tour guide pointed out the school, hospital, library, indoor pool and play area, hockey rink, curling rink, fitness center, gym, basketball court, post office, and theatre, all within the complex. Hotels, restaurants, and shops line the main road offering services to tourists who are an important resource to the town.

walkabout with Marcella and Rhoda in the tundra landscape

We strolled up and down the main road, poked our heads into several gift shops, and predictably came away with a few souvenirs. We also visited the supermarket-cum-general store with clothing and other household necessities. I was delighted to find good black tea, biscuits (cookies) similar to what we had in South Africa, and Nestle Aero chocolate bars as well as Smarties, the British version of M&Ms. And since all goods need to be freighted in by rail this makes the cost of food and other merchandise a lot higher if not prohibitive for some residents.  

Dig deep enough and you discover that packed into this small area is a lot of history, culture, and of course, wildlife.  The town's claim to fame is that it is the Polar Bear Capital of the World.  But it is also the best place for up-close viewing of beluga whales that make their way into the Churchill estuary to feed, mate, and calve.  Polar bears and whales may have congregated here during their migrations for as long as they have been around, but the indigenous people were here too thousands of years ago.  The Dene, the Cree and the Inuit have called this home for 4,000 years, sustained by the wildlife in the region.  Many continue family traditions of hunting and trapping moose, caribou and fish. 

Prince of Wales Fort

The first European in the area was a Danish sailor, Jens Munck, when bad weather forced the crew to spend the winter here in 1620.  Sadly, only three survived, the rest succumbing to scurvy. 

The fur trade brought more Europeans to the region and in 1689 the Hudson Bay Company attempted to establish a post and whale fishery but it was only in 1717 that James Knight built a permanent wooden fort at Munk’s wintering site.  In 1731, the Hudson Bay Company built a stone fort to protect its interests and occupied it until 1782 when the French destroyed it. Samuel Hearne rebuilt the Prince of Wales Fort on Knight’s original site in 1783. 

We toured the Prince of Wales Fort, now a Historic National site, while batting fiercely at mosquitoes, flies and "no see ums" that plagued us.  Unfortunately, these pesky bugs are a part of the landscape too.  One of our guides mentioned that they are typically a lot worse than we experienced because of the unusually cooler weather.  The star-shaped stone fort houses cannons, and the remains of barracks and other buildings. It was at Prince of Wales Fort that we saw our first polar bear, a mom and twin cubs, emerge out of the water beyond the walls of the fort and amble on along the shoreline. That was an exciting moment. 

Across the river from the stone fort is Cape Merry, a battery constructed in 1746 to guard the river and river mouth and offer protection for the fort with crossfire.  We saw the one original cannon on the reconstructed battery and remains of a powder magazine which still has the original limestone mortar. Of note is that none of the cannons were ever fired.  Here is where we got our first sightings of beluga whales, their bright white backs visible against the dark muddy water of the bay. 

Prince of Wales Fort across the river from Cape Merry

original cannon at Cape Merry, never fired

Port of Churchill grain silos, and beluga whale backs

Giant grain silos dominate at the edge of town at the Port of Churchill. Originally constructed after the rail line was completed in the 1930s, to export grain and wheat overseas, the port has experienced cyclical periods of disuse but most recently activity has resumed again. Like the town itself, the port relies on the railway to transport goods here and when spring floods in May 2017 washed out the rail line, it created a huge problem for the town, resulting in job losses, escalating prices for goods and fresh groceries that then had to be air freighted in. Those who could, left; those who remained banded together in support for one another until in time the rail line was repaired after a lot of political wrangling, leaving the town stranded for more than a year. Currently the port and rail line are owned by the Arctic group which includes the indigenous groups, Fairfax Financial investment group and AGT Foods. The town is overjoyed that grain shipments have once again resumed. 

There are several murals around Churchill that are quite striking. They came into being as part of an activist movement to protect the oceans but also to bring attention to the town after trains stopped running in 2017 after the rail line was washed out. Several artists from around the world participated in this venture. The mural in the picture below appears on an abandoned office building at the Port and symbolizes the struggles the town endured during the period the rail line was closed, much like the tightrope walker on this rail line. We saw this mural on our tour of the town and our guide became quite animated sharing the trials and tribulations that the townsfolk endured at the time of the Port closure. Here is an excellent detailed account by Kristin of the many murals: Murals that Tell a Story of Climate Change in Churchill, Manitoba 

The Rope by Case Maclaim - courtesy of weblink above

A Community Cemetery lies outside of town. To the indigenous it serves as a reminder of the cruel way the nomadic caribou-hunting Sayisi Dene people living in this region were treated by the Canadian government. In 1956, based on an incorrect assumption that the Dene were over-hunting the migrating caribou indiscriminately, the government relocated the population living at Little Duck Lake to Churchill. Forced into an urban way of life, with their livelihood and way of life destroyed, the relocated population became destitute and nearly half of them died. Our tour guide became quite emotional while recounting the story of her own grandmother's experience and eventual death from this incident. 

The Miss Piggy plane wreck is a popular attraction. This Curtiss C-46 Commando cargo aircraft crashed on a hill shortly after take-off in November 1979.  Experiencing a sudden drop in oil-pressure, the pilot turned around to head back to the airport but crashed a 1/4 of a mile before the runway. The crew of three was injured but survived. The plane is covered in graffiti and has become a regular tourist stop. Perhaps it is a reminder or testament to the fact that Churchill, despite false starts and many historical challenges, it too survives, and we are the fortunate ones who have the opportunity to experience all the wonders of this remote outpost town. 

There are several different stories about the origins of the name Miss Piggy but no one really knows. 

Of note is that the rock where the plane crashed is known as metagreywacke, also called Churchill quartzite, a type of sandstone bedrock only found in a few places on earth. Churchill's Quartzite

metagreywacke rock

Polar Bear Jail with its iconic mural by artist Kal Barteski

Another popular attraction is the Polar Bear Holding Facility, known as the polar bear jail. August through November are the months when the polar bears hang around the Churchill area while they wait for the ice to form so that they can continue their migration north. 

The Polar Bear Alert Program, the only one in existence, protects humans as well as bears and is most active during these months. Whenever a bear ambles too close to town, the first response is to scare it off with loud noises. If the bear persists on coming into town and making possible contact with humans, Manitoba Conservation staff trap the bear and take it to the holding facility where it will remain in one of the 5 air-conditioned cells until the bay freezes and the bears can be released on to the ice. Residents take co-existing with polar bears very seriously and are mindful of never walking alone, being close to an unlocked car in case they need to jump in for safety and flee, and each evening a siren sounds a 10PM curfew to remind people that the polar bear patrol is going off duty and to stay indoors. Polar bears will attack and playing dead or making eye contact and backing away, as advised with black bears, does not work with these predators. While we were here, a mother and her cubs were spending time in the jail. Since the bears do not need to bulk up for the winter months like their cousins, polar bears typically fast until the ice returns and they can head north to feast on ring-seals, their favorite food. Polar Bear Alert Program

But wait, there is more to this town! The Churchill Rocket Range is an historical site that we saw from the bus on our tour of the town. Like so much that has happened in this town, the rocket range was in operation for two years during 1956-58, shut down, then in operation again for about ten years as an atmospheric research center, until final closure in 1984. The facility now hosts the Churchill Northern Studies Center which focuses on arctic research.  Rocket Range

Back in 1942, the United States established an air base as a staging area for supplies to Europe during WWII. After the war the Canadian Air Force continued operating the base which eventually was decommissioned and now is the town's airport and Calm Air's terminal. Additionally, the Royal Canadian Navy operated a naval radio station from 1943 to 1949 in support of U-boat direction finding. We saw the abandoned Operations and Accommodations building, which according to our guide, is where the Canadian "wrens" (WRCNS) worked on the decoding, and where dances were once held for the personnel. 

now an abandoned operations building with graffiti, a reminder
of its history

The best and most exciting day was our excursion to view the beluga whales. The morning turned out to be slightly windy making the water choppy, so only a few brave souls chose to kayak, Michael being one. The rest of us were taken out in groups of 8 on small crafts called Zodiacs, heavy duty inflatable boats. 

T donning life jacket for the Zodiac ride,
 M with the kayakers in the background

It was a thrilling experience floating among thousands of beluga whales. About 5,000 whales make their way to Churchill and other northern estuaries every July and August. 

They literally surrounded us, swam towards us, under us, and sometimes bumped the boat. Belugas are curious by nature and seemed to have no fear swimming right up to us, surfacing briefly then swimming on. We saw mothers with juveniles, a mother with a fairly newborn calf, groups of young whales, and mature whales. Mature whales are white making them easier to spot against the dark murky water. Adolescent whales are a lighter grey and will turn white within 7 to 9 years, juveniles are a darker grey, and babies are a brownish color. The babies stay with mom for a couple of years, and she teaches them how to swim, breathe and feed. Very young calves tend to pop their heads above water because they are still inexperienced with swimming and breathing. 

As one of the whales swam straight for the boat, I caught a glimpse of its face and distinctive bulbous forehead. At other times we caught sight of their tails.  It all felt a bit surreal, as if we were a part of a choreographed ballet with the beluga corps de ballet gracefully leaping around us on the Hudson Bay stage. Taking photos was tricky because as we would call out and point towards yet another sighting, by the time you focused on the whale it had already disappeared. 

At one point, three juveniles surfaced and emitted sounds above water, something that Fiona, our guide, said is quite rare to witness above water and was as excited as we were. We all laughed and agreed that these must have been males because of the rather rude sounds they made. Fiona dropped a hydrophone into the water for us to hear the whale conversations below. It was a cacophony of various sounds, in various intervals, an opera ranging from soprano to tenor voices, and the reason belugas are also called "sea canaries."  Beluga Whale Facts

our guide, Fiona, steering us towards the beluga pods

several juveniles

the more typical sighting of a white back

For a small town, there were several restaurants offering a varied culinary experience. We all ate at the Tundra Pub the first night we arrived. The menu offered bison stew, elk meatloaf, venison bangers and mash, and caribou potpie. I stuck with the traditional fish and chips. 

The following day, we all gathered for social time and were treated to dinner at The Reef in the Seaport Hotel. It was a full course meal with several selections on the menu. I chose a local fish called char, a flavorful, mild fish described as the cousin of salmon and trout, that is native to arctic and subarctic waters. 

tasty food and meal time camaraderie with our Alpine group

At the other end of the palate spectrum is the newly opened Ptarmigan restaurant with intriguing vegan choices, healthy delicious smoothies, and fabulous salads with homemade gluten free bread. It was a welcome change from meat and fries!  The dessert menu was equally tempting. 

the two of us dwarfed by this enormous all-terrain vehicle

The day before we departed, we went on a tundra buggy excursion, hoping to see more polar bears up close. We didn't see any bears during the ride but we did experience the tundra wilderness of the Churchill Wildlife Management Area that adjoins the Wapusk National Park. We had several sightings of Tundra Swans, huge birds that stand out because of their white color, and a few other birds like loons and ducks. The protected landscape of the wildlife management area is a prime nesting location for many of the 200-plus bird species that migrate to this area every summer.  We saw a fox den, but no foxes. And we had a very informative guide who gave us the history of the area and its natural habitat. She was also able to explain that the town is named for the third governor of the Hudson Bay Company, Lord Churchill (to whom Winston Churchill is related), and who became Lord Montague. 

driving through the wildlife management tundra region

aboard the Tundra Rover

these rovers can negotiate any terrain, even boreal bogs

On our way back to town after our tundra tour, we saw two polar bears in a field. One began to roll around in the grass while the other stopped to observe the bus. It was a perfect ending to our visit. All told, we had three bear sightings: two mothers with twin cubs each, and the two single polar bears. Polar Bear Facts

(photos thanks to Gene and Bruce)

With a few hours left before boarding the overnight train back to Thompson, the two of us visited the Parks Canada Visitor Center and museum housed inside the Railway Station and heard the lecture on beluga whales presented by a scientist who studies the impact of human activity on the whales. Apparently, the kayaks and smaller crafts like the Zodiacs have had no effect on the whales and over time they appear to be making more contact with these vessels. Of the several areas where there are belugas, Churchill is not one of the most populated, but it is one of the easiest places to access for humans to be able to view them in shallow waters. Further study is being conducted on the impact on the whales with larger vessels like cruise ships coming into the bay. It is very evident that the well-being of these animals is of concern and importance to the Canadians.

gathering outside the Churchill Train Sation

Late in the afternoon we boarded the overnight train that would take us back to Thompson. Because of the derailment, we would need to get off at Wabowden and continue to Thompson by bus, an hour-long ride. We were all in one carriage together, armed with snacks for the long 18-hour trip back. The hours dragged on but we were able to break them up by spending time in the observation car.

all aboard VIA rail to Wabowden

in the observation car

the view from the observation car

It was not exactly a comfortable night trying to sleep in a semi-upright position! None of us slept well and by the morning we all felt pretty groggy, very stiff, some of us more sore than others, but our mood was good. This was part of our adventure! 

I am so glad there was hot water available to make tea.  It made an uncomfortable and extremely long train ride a lot more tolerable. We had bought snacks  - chips, crackers, carrots, juice, tea, milk, cheeses, cookies, granola bars – plus some nuts from home. We munched as we felt like it and I drank my welcome cups of tea.

We stopped at a village where the towns-folk were hoping their mail would arrive on this train because the derailment interrupted their mail delivery. These folks, who looked like they were indigenous, live such remote and secluded lives that I can’t even begin to understand or imagine what that must be like. Without the rail line, they would be completely isolated in this remote wilderness.  

Eventually we all became quite antsy as 1PM approached, the time of our arrival in Wabowden. I could not believe that the Mayor of Thompson was there to greet us and had once again arranged transport for us back to the campground! I gave her a hug and told her how happy I was to see her. We were shepherded onto the bus that would take us the rest of the way to Thompson. The air-conditioning on the old Prevost was not working so our driver, a rugged looking character, popped the vents open on this stifling day.  Unfortunately, we had to endure the smoke which was quite dense and created poor air quality. 

I don’t think I was ever happier to be back at our Alpine! 

Everyone was glad to be back, relax after the eventful past few days, sleep in our own comfortable beds, and prepare for travel the next day. 

The main attraction of our trip is now over! And it was well worth it. We visited the edge of the American continent, experienced the landscape of the subarctic zone, paddled among the belugas, saw polar bears, saw Arctic Swans, a bald eagle, loons and ducks, and learned a lot about the area and its history. 

We didn't see the northern lights but those can wait for another future trip. 

Tomorrow, we start the journey south towards Saskatchewan. 

Here are a few more photos for the Churchill album:

The way these trees grow is described as "Krumholtz formations." The trees are stunted, with flaglike tops due to the wind and permafrost. The fierce wind off Hudson Bay dries and kills branches on the windward side, giving trees a flaglike appearance. Intense winter cold, combined with permafrost, dwarfs these trees as it does every other plant.

a lucky bald eagle sighting

bear traps at the side of the bear jail 

Churchill's icon

Churchillian sense of humor

the reality of living in a polar bear migratory region

inukshuk on the beach: stone structure in the shape of a human
used by Inuit as a landmark or commemorative sign

the back of the jackets that Tom had made for the group - and
which were most welcome on the cooler and windy days - and
a great memory of an awesome "bucket list" experience

this is about as close as we got to a polar bear - 
at the museum... and they are huge