Oregon Coast Nine Day Rolling Rally

The Nine Day Rolling Rally was an excellent adventure - three days in three different venues along the Oregon coast with plenty to see and explore, including an exciting jet boat excursion. 

Our hosts, the Hicks and the Matthews outdid themselves organizing, feeding, and shepherding all of us. And keeping us all safe by hosting social hour and catered meals mostly outside. Unfortunately, the Delta variant had just appeared and was beginning to affect major cities. So far, there were very few if any reports of infections along this more remote stretch of the coast although we all took care to remain vigilant. 

Twenty-one coaches signed up with members from California, Arizona, Washington, Oregon, Nevada and Arkansas.

Our first port of call was Turtle Rock RV Resort in Gold Beach, so named because the rock on the beach resembles the shape of a turtle. 

Here we all convened, set up, and caught up with friends. 

The very next day, we were up bright and early for our 104-mile trip up and down the Rogue River. It was a perfect, blue-sky day. 

Our jet boat captain, also a history buff, shared a lot of local history as we cruised upriver. He pointed out specific spots where Indian battles took place during the 1850s:  Massacre Rock where soldiers shot Indians in canoes as they passed by in reprisal for killing a group of settlers; and another rock further upstream where Indians chose to jump to their deaths rather than be relocated to a reservation. This area saw many a war between the native Indian tribes and the European settlers. 

Massacre Rock

The scenery was beautiful and being on the water allowed us to drift through a natural and untouched landscape not seen by many.  Our guide was able to point out wildlife he spotted: a blue heron, couple of osprey nests and ospreys soaring above the trees, a black tailed deer, a couple of otters, a timber wolf, and Western turtles sunning themselves on a rock. 

He also pointed out several trees, many used in the timber industry for building.

blue heron

We passed a lot of rafts floating down river and kayakers for whom we slowed down so as not to create a wake. At Lucas Lodge, we docked to have a break and a sumptuous luncheon served family style outdoors: mashed potatoes, corn, coleslaw, fried chicken, biscuits, gravy, cranberry, and cobbler with Ice-cream. I'm glad we didn't sink on the trip back! 

On the way back we were treated to a fair share of donut spins and wheelies, figure 8s and a long section of rapids and scary rocks as we bumped across and over them. These 3-engine 1000-horsepower flat-hull boats with hydro-jet pumps can travel up to 50 MPH in only 8 inches of water. The captain did his best to create wakes and splashes while we cheered and screeched, some with more delight than others. 

Michael captured some of this on his Go-Pro: Jet Boat Spins & Splashes

We arrived back well after 3:30PM. It was a long day but definitely a memorable and a wonderful start to the rally. 

that's us - 4th row on the left, M in blue and T in purple jacket

The next day, the two of us drove to Bandon, a seaside town 55 miles north of Gold Beach. Until Europeans arrived in the 1850s, the area was inhabited by Coquille Indians. Initially called Averill, the name was changed to Bandon after the arrival of several Irish immigrants in 1873. We visited the recommended highlights and had lunch at Tony's Crab Shack along the wharf in the old town. 

I spied a quilt shop and stopped in quickly to take a look. Chatted with the owner who is familiar with the Anacortes area because she went to Western Washington University in Bellingham. Small world...which became even smaller when I learned her mother is friends with the lady who owns the Pacific Rim Quilt company, which is the company that carries the patterns for the reverse applique elephant and giraffe wall hangings that I made. 

the stiff breeze was blowing different patterns across the sand

After that we continued on to the Face Rock Viewpoint which was well worth the view.  An Indian legend tells that one can hear a maiden's voice on the wind and that one can see a face on the rock from the cliff overlooking the ocean. Although the wind was whipping quite briskly that day, we didn't hear the maiden's voice, nor could we make out the face on the gigantic rock in the ocean. But the scenery was beautiful.

Here is a link to the legend: Legend of Face Rock

We stopped at Bandon South Jetty Park at the mouth of the Coquille River. Here the beach was rugged and littered with logs that had washed ashore from previous storms. Across on the other side of the river we saw the Coquille River Lighthouse, one of many lighthouses that dot the Oregon coast. 

a wild a woolly beach

Coquille River Lighthouse across the river and gulls battling
the stiff breeze

Port Orford viewpoint with harbor on the right

On our way back to Gold Beach for social hour and pizza dinner, I popped into Quilter's Corner in Port Orford (and here again the owner was familiar with Anacortes and had lived there for a couple of years early in her marriage), after which we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking the Port Orford harbor and more spectacular scenery. 

We made one final stop at Misty Meadows jam store to stock up on a variety of homemade berry jams: local cranberry, raspberry, blueberry, boysenberry, gooseberry, marionberry, blackberry, huckleberry.  Peanut butter and various berry jam sandwiches will taste even better for the next few months!

As we continued on back to the RV Resort, we pulled in at various layovers to drink in the scenery and take more photos of this incredibly beautiful and wild coastline. 

The next port of call was Winchester Bay, 101 miles further north, where we checked in at Winchester Bay RV Resort. In 2015, NoWACA hosted their rally here which we also attended and met Alpine members from our neck of the woods for the first time.  

The day turned quite chilly and with the wind it felt even colder. We bundled up to gather outside for the bring-your-own-barbecue dinner that followed happy hour. The weather certainly was not a deterrent. 

The following day was Father's Day, so in his honor, Michael chose the activities that he would most enjoy. True to his eternal boy scout curiosity and unflagging energy, my dear husband scouted out every available attraction within 40 miles north of us of interest to him. We certainly saw a lot, took many photos to prove it, and I, at least, returned to the RV Resort just in time for dinner totally exhausted!

Reedsport was the first stop to see the Oregon Divisional Chainsaw Carving Competition held annually. 

We were here with the NoWACA rally, also over Father's Day weekend, and saw many spectacular carvings then. This was no different years later, though perhaps there were many fewer competitors from overseas due to COVID. 

The process itself is most fascinating to observe. There is a pile of logs of all sizes available, and each carver carefully scrutinizes the shapes and sizes before choosing one. It is a real skill as well as an art to be able to wield the chainsaw while carefully peeling away layers of hard wood that will eventually reveal the shape the carver envisions. It is a noisy and messy process, so the carvers all wear protective earmuffs as well as masks to protect them from the flying sawdust.  There are competitions throughout the day, some timed, others themed, followed by an auction at the end of the day. 

The final carvings are amazing.

the main street of quaint town of Reedsport, a typical small
American town

Next, we continued to the Sea Lion Caves. Here we stood in line outside awaiting our turn to enter as they were limiting the number of groups.  Folks were masked and maintained a red-line distance between groups. The caves have been in operation since 1932. Considered the largest sea cave in the US, this site is where Stellar sea lions and their cubs shelter each year.

From the outside observation area, we watched the lazy and noisy sea lions on the rocks below, then took the elevator to the large cave below. 

observation area to cliffs below

a noisy, lazy colony of sealions

diagram of the cave 208 feet below

inside the cave and observation window

Afterwards, we continued to Heceta Head Lighthouse where we walked the trail up to the lightkeeper's house and grounds, then further up to the lighthouse itself. It is a working lighthouse, outfitted with a Fresnel lens that casts its beams 21 miles out to sea from a height of 205 feet above the ocean. It was pretty chilly and quite foggy but also created an opportunity for mysterious photos. 

the cool weather and fog did not deter families from enjoying
the beach on Father's Day

view from the lighthouse keeper's grounds to the beach below

lighthouse keeper's home

every day, the lighthouse keeper trudged further
uphill to see to his duties, no matter the weather

view from the lighthouse area

the incredibly expensive bridge was built across the creek and
a very deep canyon along the coastal highway to Florence
 

On the return trip to the RV Resort we stopped in Florence at the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum. Here we were treated to all manner of displays and antiquities relating to the history of the Siuslaw Indians who lived in this area as well as the history of the establishment and growth of the town of Florence.  Initially the town could only be accessed by boats or horse and buggy when the tide was out until the coastal road and bridge were built in the 1920s. In fact, in the early pioneering days, parents rowed their children into town to attend school or timed their retrieval with the tides so they could cross the creek. 

More information about the history of US 101: Oregon Coast Highway

the museum once was a schoolhouse

Naturally I was attracted to things mainly of interest to me, imagining what life was like once when the latest and greatest inventions and appliances were available!

the evolution of irons, a necessary 
household item through the years

treadle machine and quilt, though I suspect back in the day, quilts
were sewn by hand 

I'm no pioneer but do remember this type of toaster when I 
was growing up

and this is how my mother ground chunks of meat

retired tools of all types

cedar dugout, handcrafted by Olaf Dahlin
in the 1890s - his family came from Sweden to
homestead around Mercer Lake

a memory quilt made in honor of original pioneers, squares made by 
descendants of early pioneers 

Continuing along back to Winchester Bay, we stopped at the chainsaw competition again but it was already wrapping up, so we moved on to the Dean Creek Elk viewing area and were pleasantly surprised to see several males grazing in the meadow below. Located along Oregon Highway 38, this is a year-round residence for a herd of 60-100 Roosevelt elk. Dean Creek is also a popular bird watching area serving as a stop along the coastal migration. 

We arrived back at the RV Resort just in time to slip into the dinner line.

The following morning, we woke up to a dense heavy fog and drippy skies. This was the view across the inlet from us, not a breath of wind and water as smooth as glass.

Today's agenda was full. First stop was a self-guided tour with the group through Shore Acres Gardens in Coos Bay, about 32 miles north. 

Shore Acres began as a 1600-acre private estate owned by Louis J Simpson, entrepreneur, lumber baron, shipbuilder, founder, and five-times mayor of North Bend in the early 1920’s.  As a Christmas present to his wife, he built a three-story Shore Acres mansion with an indoor swimming pool and a ballroom in 1908. The grounds featured five acres of formal gardens, including a Japanese-style garden built around a 100-foot lily pond.  He brought trees, flowers and shrubs from around the world aboard his sailing ships.

When that house was destroyed in a fire in 1921, he built an even larger replacement. However, financial losses during the Depression caused the house and the grounds to fall into disrepair and in 1942, the state of Oregon purchased Shore Acres for use as a public park.

The mansion was eventually razed, and the restored formal gardens continue to attract visitors, including us. At this time of the year, the rhodies were just over, and the roses were in full bloom. We saw a huge Western Pine, Monkey Puzzle tree, red hot pokers, and other interesting plants, and beds walled in with box hedges a la European style. 

Marcia giving us background information about the gardens

strolling through the European styled gardens with box hedges

Prickly Rhubarb from South America

lemon bottle brush from Australia

the roses offered a spectacular display

rows of award winning roses

monkey tree

This Monterey Pine was planted between 1906 and 1921 by the Simpson family on their estate. The tree was recognized in 2002 as the largest of its species in the US by the National Register of Big Trees. Its circumference is 208 inches, it's 95 feet tall, and approximately 100 years old.

Despite the drippy skies, we walked through the gardens, marveling at the various plants. It was candy for the eyes and uplifting to the heart, everything that pretty gardens are known for.

From the gardens we continued along the loop road that took us to two viewpoints: Simpson Reef and Cape Arago. Despite the swirling fog, the scenery was breathtaking. 

Lunch at the Fisherman's Grotto was jovial in the company of friends, and also very filling. 

These crab pots stacked outside the restaurant are a sure sign that fresh seafood is always guaranteed on the menu.

From there we proceeded to the Egyptian Historic Theatre in Coos Bay for a tour. Currently the theatre is owned by the city of Coos Bay and being restored and refurbished back to its heyday. After King Tutt’s tomb was discovered, everything Egyptian became the rage in the 1920s, including décor for several Egyptian theatres around the country. This theatre is one of the last remaining. It featured silent movies, hence the pipe organ, vaudeville acts, and eventually regular movies. Today, it uses 21^st century technology with 4K digital projector.  

This link gives more detailed history about the theatre:  Egyptian Theatre

Michael and King Tut in the foyer

view from the balcony with the pipe organ in front of the stage

an original chair from the original theatre on the left

one of the original drops backstage

The focal point is of course the original working Wurlitzer pipe organ that was installed when the theatre opened to provide sound effects for the silent movies.  After the tour, the organist demonstrated how the organ functioned and then played for us for almost an hour. He told us a little about his life and passion for organs, which was very apparent during his explanations on the inner workings and his performance.  The organ and the organist are a lost art today. 

the original organ, maintained by the organist since 1980

We were all treated to popcorn and a soda during the performance. 

organ pipes are hidden behind the harp shaped frescos along the side walls

Walking to the theatre from the parking lot, Michael noticed this mural of Steve Prefonteine, a famous long-distance runner in the 1970s, whose name Michael remembers through his brother Kevin, also a world-rated long distance runner back then.  Prefontaine was born here in Coos Bay and competed in the 1972 Munich Olympics.  During his training for the 1976 Olympics he set American records for every distance from 2000 to 10000 meters.  But he never made it to the '76 Olympics as he was tragically killed in a car accident in Eugene Oregon in 1975.  An annual track event, the Prefontaine Classic, has been held in his memory since 1975. 

Our last rally venue was Newport, 75 miles further north on the coast, where we stayed at the Newport Marina and RV Park with a terrific view of the bridge. This is one of six bridges designed by Conde B. McCullough, Oregon's state bridge engineer from 1919 to 1937, as part of a project to span the three bays and three river estuaries that relied on outmoded ferry service along the coastal highway. 

We decided to visit the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and lighthouse one of the days. The Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area extends out from the Oregon coast, one mile into the Pacific Ocean.  Standing 93 feet tall at the westernmost point of the basalt headland, the lighthouse has guided ships along the west coast since 1873.  The offshore islands are a year-round refuge for harbor seals and a spring-summer home for thousands of nesting birds.

This log entry from the same day in 1890 caught my eye: 

Views across the sweeping bay were majestic. 

From there we continued on to Devils Punchbowl, a unique hollowed out rock where incoming waves swirl and foam inside the bowl before rushing out again through the small fissure in the rock. 

Here too, the views along the coast were spectacular. 

We proceeded back to Newport where I stopped in at a quilt store and could happily have stayed for hours to explore all they had to offer. I did find a couple of treasures to bring back with me as future projects and memories of our visit. 

I especially loved all the applique wall
hangings 

Then we walked along the historic bayfront along Front Street in downtown to see the working fishermen’s waterfront. We watched a young mother with her baby son catching crabs off the wharf. 

dinner catch for the family

As we walked past the Pacific Seafood Plant, we noticed a truck with a coral pink substance being deposited into the truck bed from a chute above. Then we noticed that this is a Surimi Plant and Google informed us that surimi is faux crab. Fish, often pollock, is minced to make a gelatinous paste that is then flavored, re-formed into flakes, sticks, or other shapes, and colored to be used as a crab substitute. Americans eat more than 130 million pounds of surimi per year. 

Pacific Seafood Surimi Plant

crab pots

bustling fishing industry

view of the bridge from the wharf

Pacific Seafood products

The bayfront also features a variety of gift shops, boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants. 

Back at the resort, we gathered for one last meal together (safely with doors open for adequate ventilation). 

And thus, nine days in the company of good friends, as we rolled along together in our Alpine coaches, came to an end. The weather was on the cooler side and often windy. But at least it didn't rain and in between we enjoyed sunny spells. 

The following morning, we said our adieus before heading off until we meet up again at a future rally. 

Jeep hooked up and Alpine ready to roll back home again