The drive to Bayou Segnette took us along Rt 90, across bridges, past mile after mile of sugar cane fields and trucks carrying their harvested loads to refineries. It was green and flat to the horizon. We were in a delta region of bayous, swamps and alligators, parishes (counties) and French names. And where folks say "Y'all" a lot.
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| there was a steady stream of trucks transporting sugar cane, full loads going one way, empty trucks returning the other way |
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| sugar cane fields and a factory |
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| smoke from fires in sugar cane fields to remove the outer leaves during harvesting |
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| view ahead |
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| one of many waterways and bridges |
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| swamps |
This gem of a park is located in Westwego on the west bank of the Mississippi River, just southwest of New Orleans. It spans 676 acres, offering numerous recreational opportunities. The RV campground is spacious, the sites large and level with full hookups. The park was our base from which we ventured to tour attractions in the area. The only down side is lack of Internet and spotty cell service. We were in New Orleans back in 2002 on our 4-Corners trip around the US in Eurovan camper. A lot has happened here since then, most notably the devastating hurricane in '05. We were looking forward to seeing the city again and also the outlying attractions.
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| the WWII Museum complex |
We toured the National
WWII Museum, a military history museum. Its main focus is the American experience in the war, with D-Day in particular. It is most definitely a tribute to the American forces and their contribution to ending the war on the European front. The museum complex spreads across several buildings and the displays are so detailed that it took us a couple of visits to go through them, and we still didn't see everything. It eventually gets to a point of over-saturation taking in so much information and detail all at once.
We watched a moving film narrated by Tom Hanks, Beyond All Boundaries, that included some 4-D effects (including rumbling seats) to create a more realistic experience. Likewise many of the multimedia exhibits made you feel like you were a participant rather than just an observer. For instance in the display featuring troops in winter conditions, the gallery was darker, colder, and there was snow sprinkled on the trees and ground.
The Boeing exhibit featuring WWII bomber planes was opened in 2013. Boeing's participation in the war effort was key, and having lived in Seattle, home of the original Boeing plant, we could relate to their contribution.
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| B-17 bomber |
The various galleries with information boards and displays included first-hand accounts from living survivors involved in the fighting. The soldiers' reminiscences were moving. This war was fought on such a global scale that it affected most of the world, not only those in direct line of combat fire.
While the lives lost on both sides was staggering and the fighting brutal, what hit home was that this war required sacrifices from everyone beyond the battle field. Families across the globe were all affected in one way or another. Although America resisted becoming involved, once Pearl Harbor was attacked, the conflict became an American one too as the US stepped up to give aid to the European allies first, and then to face battle on the Pacific front. So while fighting ceased in Europe, there was no homecoming for the US troops who continued the battle on the Pacific front.
One of the pavilions portrayed how the war affected American everyday home life, even though the battle was ongoing thousands of miles away. Besides the food rations, the war posters and advertisements on cereal boxes supporting the cause, there was a Victory quilt hanging up in the war era period home display. Its colors and red V's made a loud statement. The war became a unified effort for all sexes and age groups to do what was necessary to achieve final victory.To that end, sewing was an important enterprise as the military needed nylon parachutes and cotton and wool for uniforms. That left civilians with fabric shortages so on the home front women had to make do by sewing their own clothes and quilts, and patching or re-purposing older items.
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| New Orleans, a city connected by bridges spanning the mighty Mississipp |
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| one of several stores carrying souvenirs and Mardi Gras accessories |
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| it feels and looks like a different city |
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| charming architecture and intricate iron trellis work |
One evening the whole group gathered at Elizabeth's Restaurant, owned by the Peck's son, Bryan. It was a memorable and special evening where we were treated to an impressive haute cuisine meal, enjoying several elegantly presented and most delicious courses.
We were also taken on a personal tour of the establishment and action center in the kitchen.
If you're ever in New Orleans, be sure to go to Elizabeth's and order their praline bacon. The tradition of bacon strips laced with syrup and pecans began in this restaurant and Bryan is continuing the tradition since taking over the establishment.
We went on a swamp tour with a real Cajun guide who spoke an interesting dialect which was occasionally difficult to understand. And true to his promise, this self-proclaimed "swamp dweller" and alligator hunter did find several alligators for us. The surrounding scenery as we floated in and out of bayou waterways was most picturesque and tranquil, belying the treacherous underworld teeming with alligators and snakes. It would be easy to get lost forever along these water passages as every bend in the bayou looked similar.
We visited Houmas House, an historic plantation first established in the late 1700s. Also known as the Sugar Palace, the mansion has changed hands several times and was enlarged by 1840 to its present state. The current owner, a bachelor, lives here.
The plantation is long gone, and today as with many historically romantic places, Houmas House is registered as a National Historic Place and is also a wedding venue.
Our tour was all about the interior of the mansion and its furnishings rather than the historic plantation operations. The lively guide, dressed in period costume, was entertaining and also informative as she took us through most of the home, including the bedroom of the current owner.
The video presentation we watched prior to the tour was more informative about the origins of the plantation. As with all of US history, the rich and fertile land originally settled by the Houma people (after whom the plantation was named) was taken from them, turned into a sugar plantation and subsequently sold a couple of times, enriching the owners who had the means to build this imposing Greek revival mansion with its massive Doric columns. It is a reminder of the riches that provided this lavish lifestyle for the plantation owners in the 1800s. Prior to the Civil War, a couple of the wealthiest land and slave owners of the antebellum south called this mansion home. I was disappointed not to learn more about plantation life or about the sugar industry.
Among the many artifacts on display inside the mansion, this pair of pistols was used in a duel fought in 1807 between the owner and territorial governor, in which one of them sustained an injury to his leg. Duels were a common practice for settling disputes concerning a gentleman's honor. The small conical shapes in the photo here are bullets. I learned that the number of rings around the base of the bullets identifies their source: confederate bullets have two rings, union's have three.
I admired the beautiful embroidery, apparently created by the hands of the previous lady of the house.
We had a good chuckle about the story behind the circular stairway, which is also an engineering feat since it has no other supports. Apparently this is the private staircase used by women to ascend to the upper floor because it was not only unseemly for males to see a woman's ankles but if they did, it was tantamount to disgrace, or if the male were suitable, instant marriage. Perhaps scheming couples used this ploy to their advantage...
Social rules of behavior were very defined and strict in the antebellum south.
We stopped at the Westwego Shrimp Lot and learned a lot about weights and sizes of shrimp. Westwego began as a fishing village and continues the tradition. Chatting with a couple of women who operate these family-run stalls, we were given some insight into the fishing industry in this region. One of the young women described how from the time she was a young girl, she has helped her grandmother operate the stall. These family-operated businesses have been here for at least a couple of generations. It's a tough way to earn a living, relies on all family members to contribute, and requires the menfolk to be away from home for weeks at a time. In addition to shrimp, some vendors also sell fish and crab. We saw blue crab up close.
Tomorrow we head north. Since our series of Alpine rallies has brought us to the Southern US, we planned to drive the historic Natchez Trace Parkway between Natchez and Nashville. But since Thanksgiving is approaching, this would be a great opportunity to go further north to see my Maryland family. It will be good to see dear old Dad and to meet my month-old niece in person. So we will drive north to Maryland first, and then return to do the Natchez Trace in reverse, Nashville to Natchez, on our return trip.
To avoid the risk of driving the Alpine in snow over Appalachian passes (like we did back in 2014), we will leave our home on wheels at the Soaring Eagle RV Park near Knoxville, Tennessee, plugged in to power to keep pipes safe from possible freezing temperatures, and proceed north in the Jeep. Knoxville to Maryland will be a 550-mile drive, and along the way back we have a couple more stops conveniently along the way: the Air & Space Museum in Chantilly, Virginia and the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library in Staunton, Virginia.
If you're ever in New Orleans, be sure to go to Elizabeth's and order their praline bacon. The tradition of bacon strips laced with syrup and pecans began in this restaurant and Bryan is continuing the tradition since taking over the establishment.
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| our Alpine friends |
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| one of many prehistoric survivors sunning itself on a log |
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| captivating and mysterious scenes on the bayou |
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| white egrets were easy to spot |
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| trees dripping with Spanish moss |
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| more alligators |
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| more pretty scenery |
 up close those teeth look lethal |
We visited Houmas House, an historic plantation first established in the late 1700s. Also known as the Sugar Palace, the mansion has changed hands several times and was enlarged by 1840 to its present state. The current owner, a bachelor, lives here.
The plantation is long gone, and today as with many historically romantic places, Houmas House is registered as a National Historic Place and is also a wedding venue.
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| Michael with Houmas' southern belle |
The video presentation we watched prior to the tour was more informative about the origins of the plantation. As with all of US history, the rich and fertile land originally settled by the Houma people (after whom the plantation was named) was taken from them, turned into a sugar plantation and subsequently sold a couple of times, enriching the owners who had the means to build this imposing Greek revival mansion with its massive Doric columns. It is a reminder of the riches that provided this lavish lifestyle for the plantation owners in the 1800s. Prior to the Civil War, a couple of the wealthiest land and slave owners of the antebellum south called this mansion home. I was disappointed not to learn more about plantation life or about the sugar industry.
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| I think these old oaks, well over 100 years, are magnificent.. and could tell many tales |
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| on the upper floor balcony overlooking the grand oak-lined avenue leading to the mansion |
Among the many artifacts on display inside the mansion, this pair of pistols was used in a duel fought in 1807 between the owner and territorial governor, in which one of them sustained an injury to his leg. Duels were a common practice for settling disputes concerning a gentleman's honor. The small conical shapes in the photo here are bullets. I learned that the number of rings around the base of the bullets identifies their source: confederate bullets have two rings, union's have three.
I admired the beautiful embroidery, apparently created by the hands of the previous lady of the house.
We had a good chuckle about the story behind the circular stairway, which is also an engineering feat since it has no other supports. Apparently this is the private staircase used by women to ascend to the upper floor because it was not only unseemly for males to see a woman's ankles but if they did, it was tantamount to disgrace, or if the male were suitable, instant marriage. Perhaps scheming couples used this ploy to their advantage... Social rules of behavior were very defined and strict in the antebellum south.
We stopped at the Westwego Shrimp Lot and learned a lot about weights and sizes of shrimp. Westwego began as a fishing village and continues the tradition. Chatting with a couple of women who operate these family-run stalls, we were given some insight into the fishing industry in this region. One of the young women described how from the time she was a young girl, she has helped her grandmother operate the stall. These family-operated businesses have been here for at least a couple of generations. It's a tough way to earn a living, relies on all family members to contribute, and requires the menfolk to be away from home for weeks at a time. In addition to shrimp, some vendors also sell fish and crab. We saw blue crab up close.
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| blue crabs really do have blue claws |
To avoid the risk of driving the Alpine in snow over Appalachian passes (like we did back in 2014), we will leave our home on wheels at the Soaring Eagle RV Park near Knoxville, Tennessee, plugged in to power to keep pipes safe from possible freezing temperatures, and proceed north in the Jeep. Knoxville to Maryland will be a 550-mile drive, and along the way back we have a couple more stops conveniently along the way: the Air & Space Museum in Chantilly, Virginia and the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library in Staunton, Virginia.