Saturday, October 3, 2015

The tale of the world’s largest dry falls


a panoramic view of the skeleton of Dry Falls that remains thousands of years later
We visited the Dry Falls Visitor Center where we watched a short video and learned even more from the informative displays.
Here is a synopsis of what I know:

20 million years ago the landscape here in Central Washington was somewhat different. There were mountains, valleys, streams and lakes, and vegetation and trees flourished in the moist, temperate climate.

Then about 17 million years ago, and lasting for about 11 million years, the Pacific Northwest was subjected to some of the earth’s largest basaltic lava flows that engulfed about 63,000 square miles. Eventually, the multiple lava flows accumulated to as much as two miles thick. The Columbia River was forced into its present course by the northwesterly advancing lava.  The lava cooled and cracked, forming the familiar hexagonal basaltic columns.

The next phase included the warping of the plateau by tremendous forces deep beneath the earth’s surface, which caused the uplift of the mountainous region in the north and caused the plateau to tilt slightly to the south.

Fast-forward to one million years ago, with the cooling of the climate and the beginning of the Ice Age. A vast ice sheet moved into Washington, Idaho and Montana. Near the Canadian border, the ice sheet was up to one mile thick. The fringes of the ice sheet dammed rivers, created lakes, and at times the Columbia River was forced to find a new path, flowing through what is today the Grand Coulee.
A portion of northwest Montana was covered by glacial Lake Missoula, which played an important role in the formation of Dry Falls. The lake was held back by an ice dam, and contained as much water as all three present-day Great Lakes combined.  The climate experienced many cycles of warming and cooling, causing the ice sheet to recede and advance.  As many as 80 times the lake broke through the ice dam with the receding of the glaciers, and unleashed tremendous volumes of water that rushed across northern Idaho and into Eastern Washington at speeds of up to 65 mph. Catastrophic floods raced across the plateau numerous times, ripping out the cracked basaltic rock, etching the coulees and ravines that now characterize this region and are known as the Channeled Scablands.  Huge whirlpools sucked basalt from below, forming deep potholes.
Two major waterfalls formed along the course of the floods. The larger of the two formed at the upper coulee, roaring over an 800-foot cliff. The tremendous erosion that resulted plucked pieces of basalt from the precipice causing the falls to retreat 20 miles and self-destruct by cutting through the Columbia River valley near what is now the Grand Coulee Dam.  The second waterfall was formed on the sloped monocline near Soap Lake, and erosion caused it to retreat to the current position at Dry Falls near Coulee City.
map showing the location of Soap Lake and Sun Lakes Dry Falls in
the Lower Grand Coulee, with Banks Lake above, part of the Grand
Coulee  - more information found here:
http://hugefloods.com/Grand-Coulee-Ice-Age.pdf
All that remains of the falls today is the skeleton that we see, dry as its name implies. Even today, the skeleton of this great waterfall in geologic history is impressive to view. It is 3.5 miles wide, with a drop of more than 400 feet.  Niagara Falls by comparison is one mile wide and drops 165 feet.

view from the Visitor Center looking down to the lake that remains below 
Once the climate warmed, the ice slowly melted and the glacier retreated north. The Columbia River returned to its original channel around the edge of the lava plateau.
Today, the ridge of Dry Falls and the numerous coulees and lakes we see across the plateau are reminders of the raging torrents that once scoured this area.






Sun Lakes Resort is situated near the base of Dry Falls, and we have hiked the trails that lead you to the lake below the precipice where we have stood and gazed up at this geological wonder towering 400 feet above us
views down the coulee  - Sun Lakes Resort is beyond the lake you see
a terrific aerial view I snagged from the Internet - you can see the 3.5 mile
skeletal ridge that remains of the falls
Here are a few links for further information about this geologic phenomenon suggested by the very helpful park ranger at the Interpretive Center: