Sunday, October 26, 2014

Day 4: A Night in Rodanthe

It's around 11:30 AM, and we are back on Croatan Highway, heading towards Cape Hatteras.  
The highway unfolds before us, a solid straight line between the dunes on one side and the shimmering water on the other.
We are driving further south along this 200-mile bank of barrier islands that forms the narrow spit off the Carolina coast.  
We see pine trees, and nestled between the dunes are narrow homes on stilts, packed in several deep along the shoreline.  
Some homes are quite grand.


I notice a sign for Hang-gliding School and spot a couple of gliders along the crest of the highest dunes waiting to take off.  What would the Wright Brothers say if they knew that folks are still gliding off the dunes here today.








In the distance we see the Bodie Lighthouse.  One of these days it would be a great theme for a future trip to stop off at all the lighthouses along the eastern seaboard.  But for today, we continue on and I snap a photo as a memory.  The black and white reminds me of pop-art.  The lighthouses I know are typically red and white.









The water is a pretty color, shades of aquas and blues.  The western side of the islands is quite swampy with miles of grasses, resembling wetlands.  











The Atlantic Ocean side is protected by yellow sandy dunes and sometimes I glimpse the sea and waves.  It seems remote and desolate.  




We cross over a bridge to Pea Island, a national wildlife refuge, then approach a ghost town, shut down and boarded up for the winter season.  









Soon after that, we arrive at our RV park.  The facility is huge, with 400 sites, most of them empty at this time of year.  It assures us, and the few others who are camped there, a prime spot closest to the beach.  

We back in to our site, number 10, hook up and head to the beach on yet another glorious, mid-70F North Carolina day.
















A spectacular site greets us as we cross the dune.  We kick off our clogs and tramp barefoot across the golden sand, dipping our feet in the Atlantic Ocean.

















We head to the pier up ahead.  The movie, Nights in Rodanthe, was filmed here and this very pier features in it.





Here are a few more shots to share from our walk along the beach - 






When we checked in, the friendly staff recommended going across the street to watch the sunset.  The show was breathtakingly spectacular.






Folks in North Carolina have Halloween on their minds.  There have been signs everywhere along our drive.  Homes and businesses are decorated with pumpkins, witches, ghosts and other macabre creatures. Motor homes are decorated too, as we discovered walking across the campground to watch the sunset. 




While eating dinner (easy left-overs tonight), we watched the movie Nights in Rodanthe.  The kind and friendly lady at the desk offered to lend us her copy.  
Watching the hurricane scene in the movie was sobering.  As peaceful and beautiful and this place looks now, it was just this past July 4th that a hurricane came rumbling through these parts.  Everyone evacuates and the bridges are closed after you leave.  There is still evidence of the hurricane's path through here  - I wondered why the cabins that are for rent at this RV park looked so twisted and damaged.  They were torn off their foundations and toppled over. 
If life on Cape Hatteras can't be perfect all the time, I am glad that our experience today was as perfect as I could imagine.

Saturday, October 25, 2014

Day 3: A few more impressions of OBX

Today, the Outer Banks area barely resembles the same expansive and isolated terrain that the Wright brothers traveled to, in order to conduct their craft experiments.   Now, a highway cuts more or less down the center of this narrow, 200-mile spit, off the Carolina coast.   On either side, holiday homes, hotels, restaurants and shopping centers line the yellow-sand shorelines around the many small communities that have since sprung up. 
One good thing about the shoreline here is that it is considered public property so anyone can access the beach.  We find it so annoying when in many other states, people own their beach front property making a part of the beach inaccessible to us. 

During the summer season, the entire Outer Banks must come alive with vacationers.  Right now, most of the homes we passed were boarded up for the winter months, their For Rent signs hanging expectantly for the next season.

Seafood is obviously popular, whether sold in small seafood markets, or featured in restaurants with some type of sea reference in their name  - Dick's Crab House, The Blue Crab Tavern.
As we walked to the Wright Brothers National Memorial, we passed many homes with crab pots stacked up in their yards.  Crabbing must be quite an enterprise if not pastime. Likewise, wherever there is a bit of water, you will see fishermen hoping to get lucky.


In every direction, there is water, if not the pounding surf, then a silvery lagoon with marsh grasses.  Many here have property on the water. And on the days we have been here, the sky and water have been the same piercing blue.

We are definitely in the South  - just listen to the way folks talk!  They speak in a sing-song lilt that can be rather catching.  I find that it also sounds very friendly.  And so far, everyone we have spoken to is very friendly, courteous and very polite.  I have never been addressed with "Yes, ma'am" and "Thank YOU ma'am" as much as I have these last couple of days.

North Carolina's OBX seems like a happy, sunny, relaxed place, and "Y'all have a good day now, ya hear!".

Day 3: The Wright Brothers National Memorial

It’s actually not surprising that Orville and Wilbur Wright were able to solve the elusive mysteries of flight.  It was a passion they both shared and as perpetual tinkerers and inventors, they tinkered their way to successfully building an airplane that was self-propelled by a small engine.
The Wright brothers first became interested in flying machines after their father brought home a toy helicopter for his two youngest sons.  Orville and Wilbur played with it until it broke, then proceeded to build their own.  This passion simply grew and intensified over the years, helped along by their other inventions.
They first built a printing press(and published a newspaper for over a year).  They repaired bicycles, then began to design and build their own in their shop.  They used various bicycle parts for their “flyers” and with the bicycle repair shop, were equipped to create their own tools and parts.
Ingenious guys!

Of course they did not have the distraction of wife and family, each a bachelor, living with their father (a bishop) and younger sister Katherine in their modest home in Ohio. 
Their sister would not let them give up  -  after one of their last unsuccessful attempts at launching their glider and crashing, one of the brothers declared as they were taking the train back home, that flying is an impossibility and would never be resolved in this lifetime. 
Katherine would not hear of it and told them that if anyone could solve the problems they were encountering, her brothers could and would.
She was right.  They did.  

Of course there were a few fundamentals concerning aerodynamics that they had to figure out, namely the ability to steer and bank their craft. Once they had their first success with their 1902 glider, the next step was to build an engine to power a craft.  It was their employee in their bicycle repair shop, Charlie Taylor, who built the engine.

Ideas rarely spring from a vacuum, but typically grow based on the work of others who also make it their life’s quest to understand and explain revolutionary ideas.  And often it's the mistakes of others that lead one to the right path.  The brothers drew on the work of other aviation pioneers like Chanute, Lilienthal (who died in one of his glider attempts), Langley and even Leonardo da Vinci.

So how is it that two Ohio brothers came to Kitty Hawk, North Carolina to conduct their gliding experiments which would eventually help them solve the problem of controlled flight?     

The brothers contacted the Weather Bureau with four specific criteria they needed to be able to launch their gliders and asked for recommendations for places that were:  
1) windy with sustained winds to 20mph
2) hilly to be able to launch their gliders
3) had suitable ground for soft landings to minimize injury
and
4) fairly private and isolated from gawkers and the press


Kitty Hawk came up as the 6th place on the list, meeting all criteria  yet close enough to travel to by train.  Located on Carolina's Outer Banks, the area was remote, windy, with numerous hilly sand dunes and soft beach sand.  The few folks who lived here came to know the brothers and also offered their help to launch the various gliders.  
The brothers packed up their “flyers” into crates and came here to spend months on end pushing each other off the dune in their gliders, as they continued their quest for understanding flight.  It took four years and more than 1,000 glider flights for them to understand and figure out three challenges: lift, power, and control. Their 1902 glider, successfully solved most of those issues and set them on the path towards their 1903  first powered flight.
The Big Kill Devil’s Hill, from which the gliders took off, today immortalizes the brothers' achievement with a monument.  We walked to the top of the monument and (of course) took dozens of photos. 
busts of Orville and Wilbur flank the granite monument atop Kill Devil Hill
Below, there stands another monument, the First Flight Boulder, marking the site of the historic first flights.   Beyond the boulder are 4 more markers that indicate where the world’s first powered airplane landed after each of the four flights on December 17, 1903.
boulder marking where the craft took off
the four spots where the first powered craft landed on December 17, 1903 
There is also a Visitor Center where we attended a presentation, and enjoyed the various displays, including replicas of the brothers’ glider, plane, and first wind tunnel they themselves built and used to try to understand the principles of flight.

I am no pilot or aeronautical whiz.  But I came away with an appreciation for what these two brothers achieved.  Through sheer persistence, the love of tinkering and inventing, like-minded cooperation and support for one another, and learning from previous men who also tried to solve the mystery of flight, they eventually connected the dots and came up with a formula that resolved the issues of controlling a craft with wings. 

My favorite discovery, however, was learning that their mother’s sewing machine played an important part in the history of flight.  The brothers covered the wings of their "flyers" with canvas cloth, sewn on their mother’s sewing machine.  That made my day!  I would like to have known what brand and model sewing machine that was.

one of those two little fellows was the nursing home resident

There is one more story that is quite memorable, and the very reason we both enjoy our vagabonding.  It’s a natural thing to meet and chat with folks who are also traveling like we are.  It’s a natural thing to ask where one is from and where one is going to.  We chatted with a couple from the Carolina’s.  It turns out that the gentleman was a pilot, and quite in awe of the Wright brothers' accomplishments.  We agreed that the brothers’ accomplishments were in fact world-changing in so short a time.  The gentleman then told us the story about how, when he was working in a nursing home in the evenings to pay for college, in 1969 as everyone was gathered around the TV watching the broadcast of Neil Armstrong stepping on to the moon, an elderly resident living in the nursing home said: I was also there the day Orville and Wilbur flew their first plane!  
He had in fact been one of the two boys caught on a photograph, watching the brothers’ successful first flight.
From those beginnings to the landing on the moon, and all in one man's lifetime.
Amazing!


Today, we take for granted the fact that you can fly to any part of the world within a few hours.  Yet it took years of experimentation, some resulting in injury and even death, for aviation to become reality.  
The National Memorial marking the Wright brothers' achievement is both a grand and fitting monument to these two pioneer brothers who ultimately solved the last pieces of the puzzle of flight.


Below the granite monument at the top of big Kill Devil Hill, there is a life-size bronze sculpture of the first successful powered plane with Orville piloting and his brother steadying the wing until the plane lifted off

Friday, October 24, 2014

Day 2: OBX-bound

We haven't been keeping up with our usual walking (me) and running (him) routines since leaving home.  While with Michelle and baby Klara, we did have several walks, but since arriving back in Maryland, the focus has been on preparing the Alpine for travel and on spending time with my folks. So, before breakfast this morning, we explored the RV Park nature trail.  It was fun to tromp through the fallen leaves, rustling our way along.
We came across a bush with these bright purple  berries, ones I have never seen before, and will need to find out what they are.


love the trees which are so different from our tall evergreens
When we arrived yesterday afternoon, a fellow-RV'er approached Michael as he was hooking up our water and electricity.  It turns out that this gentleman and his wife also owned an Alpine and loved it.  Well, at least until they had some issues with it and needed to be towed 100 miles.  Theirs was a much newer model, a 2008.  We have heard that newer models past 2003 began having issues.  Hopefully our older, tried and tested coach will live up to its reputation. 
It was, however, a wake-up call that problems can and do arise when living the itinerant life. And it's something we need to keep in mind and be prepared for, should it ever happen.  Stationary homes also have problems that need to be fixed.  This is no different, except that we are also living in the machine that  pulls our home along to different locations. At the moment we do not have a tow-vehicle so are more dependent on the coach.

But this fine Virginia morning, Michael was checking the tires again while they were still cold.  I did mention that he is particular about his tires, didn't I? 
And in the process discovered that the hose he bought to be able to inflate tires using the diesel engine, has the wrong connector.  He went off to the Alpine gentleman who gladly lent his hose.  Folks in campgrounds look after one another and are always helpful if a fellow traveler is in need.  The couple was heading to town, and simply trusted that Michael would return the hose once he was finished with it.  Which of course he did.  
The moral of this tale is that folks in RV's like to watch out for one another in a neighborly way. We will always have friends on our travels.

Striking camp was a little easier today now that we had done it once.  But I did forget to shut the fan vent in the kitchen, which our neighbors pointed out as we were about to leave.  
In time, I suspect we will have a routine, like with Rialta, and it will become second nature.

There were two surprises today.   GPS lady wanted to lead us to the north bound on-ramp for some reason. This time it was not me programming the information in.  We knew the prompt was incorrect, and followed the signs for the southbound on-ramp instead.  I unstrapped, stepped up to the GPS and in trying to get it off its holder, cracked a nail  - boy, do I find it difficult to uncouple this GPS.  I will need to get used to how to do it in a jiffy because as you are driving along and on-ramps are appearing, there is no time to dally.  I entered the destination address, having learned to write it down from yesterday's lesson.  I suppose I will never fully trust anything electronic, not until I am a lot more familiar with how the device was programmed in the first place.  There are probably specific steps to follow and I need to learn them.

GPS lady readjusted to the new data and we continued along with the stream of traffic, heading towards Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, for today's destination.
All was going well, until something began beeping.  The sellers had warned that every so often for no apparent reason, the alarm for the hydraulic jacks goes off.  If any of the jacks were actually down, this could be serious.  There was only one way to find out if the beeping was simply the same erroneous signal the sellers also experienced or whether this was a real problem.
Traveling along at 60 miles an hour and making split-second decisions is not easy.  We were approaching an off-ramp, but unfortunately it led to another highway rather than a gas station or shopping center.  Michael did the next best thing and pulled over to the side.  
It did turn out to be a false alarm after all.  Thankfully.  And we know the sellers had everything checked out and were told all is fine.  
But what a scare, and a good learning experience yet again about how important it is to be prepared for all sorts of scenarios while traveling.

We were able to get back to our original route, and GPS lady did a fine job of returning us to I-64 south again.
Around Richmond, we noticed that our "fastest route" was about to take us through a tunnel. This was another new experience.  We watched for warnings about height clearance (another new thing to be aware of) and hoped that GPS lady had factored that into the route.  We did need to pull over to be inspected because of the restriction on gas and hazmat going through the tunnel  and our refrigerator was running on LP gas while we were traveling. Michael dutifully pulled over and the inspector came out of his booth and watched him turn off the LP gas. The old guy was quite happy to chat with Michael for as long as he could.  Folks in Virginia sure are friendly and helpful.

Off we zoomed, back on 64 south, and into the tunnel, under the Chesapeake Bay.  We emerged back above water, and saw the navy destroyers across from us at Norfolk.  











We continued on towards Chesapeake, making our way to route 168.  We were now on a toll road and had our first experience pulling up to the toll booth to pay our $3. Even though there are six wheels on the Alpine, it is still a two-axle vehicle.  


We crossed over into North Carolina.  Route 168 took us through Currituck County along the Inner Banks.
We stopped at the Welcome Center along the way.  It was well past munch-time by now. How easy it is to have a bite to eat in the elegant kitchen.  Michael also took the opportunity to turn the LP gas back on so our fridge could run.  What a clever Alpine this is.  In Rialta, while traveling, the small fridge ran on the Rialta battery.  It was my job to remember to switch the battery on once we were on the road.  It was important to switch it off again if we were stopping for a while, so as not to risk running down the car battery.

I made my way into the Welcome Center, but first noticed the van with Oregon plates.  A fellow-countryman, no doubt, and as far from home as we were.  There were no other vehicles other than our two so when I went inside, I assumed the gentleman there was the one from Oregon and approached him.  He too was in the twilight of life, like we are, and he and his wife, both living in Portland, were traveling around the States, much like we did in our Eurovan camper over 12 years ago.  
I was grateful to be doing this in a lot more comfort now.

I loaded up with all the free brochures.  There is so much to see and learn about.  Once again, I wished we didn't have to be on a schedule to be able to loiter and learn.  We will definitely need to return. 
The rest of the drive, I was occupied reading all the billboards along the way.   And they lined the road, advertising everything from farm produce to crabs, tobacco and tattoos.  We drove past many fallow fields, south along the peninsula.

OBX Campground is located in Kill Devil Hill, close to the Orville and Wilbur Wright National Memorial Park.
We asked what OBX stands for because we had seen it many times as we drove along - Outerbanks!  Now we knew.

We pulled in to OBX Campground after 4, and the office was still open.  The campground is also a quiet spot along the peninsula, just north of Roanoke Island, tucked back off the road and right on Currituck Sound.
The lady in the office was funny.  She handed us the papers and the Campground rules, typical to all campgrounds regarding speed limit, check-in and check-out times, pets, campfires, and so on.  Under the heading Quiet Hours, I was most amused to see that in bold capitals was listed NO PROFANITY ALLOWED followed by two large exclamation points. 
That was a first for us and I asked whether profanity is an issue here in Kill Devil Hill.   She replied in no uncertain terms that it can be and that she had in fact evicted a cussing camper, and gave him 5 minutes to get off the property before she called the law.
We had a good chuckle and promised we would not be cussing with the f-word like the camper did.

We found our site, a back-in this time.  My driver did superbly yet again.  My new job is to make sure he has plenty of room on the left side of the coach to be able to extend the slides and also that there are no overhead hazards like low branches.  No such hazards here, as we are on an open beachy area, close to the inlet. 
It was actually short-sleeves-warm today with a clear sunny sky.  We set up, hooked up, and walked to the pier and around the campground before it began to get dark.  




Back inside,I am sure you can guess what came next - why, tea of course!  While logging on to check emails.  So far all the campgrounds where we stayed had wi-fi.  It seems to be a given these days.  I remember when wi-fi was not always available or included and often we needed to pay for it.  
We depend on connecting to the WWW and being able to check emails.  And of course I need to be online if I am to post to my blog.

Tonight's dinner menu was a warm salad.  While preparing the greens and all the other fresh veg that I plan to use, I fry up some onion and mushrooms, and tonight also a red pepper and a yam.  Once the salad is assembled and ready, I add the warm cooked veg on top, add some olive oil and apple cider vinegar ( or balsamic which I don't have right now), ground pepper and a tiny amount of sea-salt and toss everything together.  Delicious!  Coffee and dark chocolate ended the large salads.  A perfect ending to a perfect Alpine day including a pink sky sunset. We had arrived safely at OBX.

Tomorrow's agenda is to walk to the Wright memorial.  We passed it on the way to OBX Campground and will be able to walk there.