Friday, November 10, 2017

3 stops on the road to New Orleans

From New Braunfels, our convoy of eight Alpines heading to New Orleans set off under gloomy, sprinkly skies after saying our last goodbyes to everyone. It was also breezy and 30 degrees colder that day! Although it had been muggy and quite hot, we probably enjoyed the best of the weather during our stay in New Braunfels.

The 552-mile trip to New Orleans would take three stops. The Pecks had organized the New Orleans trip and RV parks for overnight stops, and graciously welcomed us as late tag-alongs after we first heard about the plans for New Orleans a month ago. 

The first overnight stop was 166 miles away at Katy Lake RV Resort in Katy, Texas, just west of Houston.  
the view ahead of us along Route 10 east-bound
We pulled in to Katy mid-afternoon and set up as usual. The Pecks, Giddens, Mazzoccos, Fred Masino and Marilyn Fogel, the Weinheimers, McClures, and Eggs were already there. Perhaps because of the cooler weather and the wind, no one stirred outside and we all spent a quiet evening in our own homes. I suspect that after the intense socializing and gadding about, we were all quite content to hibernate and relax for the first time in over two weeks. 

The next leg was to Beaumont, Texas, 102 miles further east along Route 10. We passed several convoys of trucks transporting wind turbine blades down the highway. Since turbines have three blades, the trucks came in threes, so by the third attempt, I was able to take a photo of the entire expanse. Those blades are enormous. 



We passed Houston with its maze of interchanges and skyscrapers.






With numerous interchanges and exits along some parts, I was glad that the roads were well marked so that we knew exactly which lane to follow.
Thumbs up to the Texans for making it simpler for those of us passing through. 


We passed a Chevron Phillips refinery. It was huge, stretching for a couple of miles on either side of the highway. The oil business is alive and booming here.

We crossed inlets and rivers feeding into the Gulf of Mexico, and saw Baytown in the distance with its port and tankers.

The landscape to the horizon is flat and marshy. The roadways are mostly elevated.
.


Approaching Beaumont, the terrain changed and trees appeared.


We arrived at Gulf Coast RV Resort just after noon, and because all eight coaches pulled in at around the same time, we created quite a traffic jam lining up into the road to check in. 
The office had lots of tourist information about the area including a brochure for Big Thicket National Preserve. We set up and had a quick lunch outside in welcome sunshine, then headed off to explore Big Thicket.

This was yet another interesting discovery. We learned about the varied ecosystems in this area of southeast Texas which are totally opposite to bone dry and arid southwest Texas. So each corner of the state has extremes in climate, topography and vegetation.
We stopped at the Visitor Center and spent some time reading the excellent displays (unfortunately we were unable to view the short video because of technical difficulties). Big Thicket once sprawled across 3.5 million acres. Today, the preserve protects 108,208 acres in 15 remnant sections that encompass nine different habitats, including hardwood forest, coastal plain, swamp, desert and prairie. This UNESCO biosphere reserve offers 40 miles of hiking trails, backcountry camping, canoeing and fishing on the Neches River or Village Creek. With only a couple of hours to explore, we merely saw a glimpse of this vast and varied biological preserve that encompasses nine land and six water units. The ranger recommended two short hikes. The first was a short drive away to the Turkey Creek Unit. 
I bought my patch, took a photo of the hexie quilt on display in the log cabin visitor center, and off we went in search of swamps, tupelo trees, cypresses, and carnivorous plants.



 a short 2.5-mile drive to the Kirby Nature Trail, lined with loblolly pines

We hiked along the Kirby Nature Trail. It felt like we had entered a secret world hidden from view. The trail led us to a cypress slough. The short stumps or "knees" surrounding these tall trees are what keep them upright in the muddy soil. They also carry oxygen to their submerged roots.

bald cypresses can grow to heights of 130 feet and live more than a thousand years
Part of the path meandered through a slope forest. The fallen dry leaves crackled as we walked along.

We found tupelo trees, with their thick-buttressed trunks. 
swamp tupelo, also called swamp gum, can
grow as high as 100 feet


Our next stop was at the Hickory Creek Unit in search of the carnivorous pitcher plant along the Sundew Trail. Of the five species of carnivorous plants in the US, four grow right here in Big Thicket.  The most well-known Venus Flytrap does not, however, grow here and is native only to the Carolinas.  
The wet soil here is low in nutrients so these plants supplement their diet by capturing insects and digesting them.
pitcher plant bog

the elegant pitcher plant, lid wide open, enticing insects


There is lots more to explore and learn about but we will need to return. For today, the sun was setting and we had a half hour drive back to the RV park.
Gulf Coast RV Resort is a great find, conveniently located right off I-10, and accepts Passport America, making it a good deal. The pads are wide and level and the best part is the free breakfast which we all took advantage of before setting out on the road to our third stop. The breakfast was a feast offering cold and hot cereals, muffins and bagels, pastries, eggs, and Texas-shaped waffles.

We were back on I-10 soon after 9 for the 143 mile trek to Abbeville, Louisiana.
Within a few miles, we crossed the Sabine River and entered Louisiana. 
Our path took us through pretty, luxurious scenery with lots of water. 
 



We crossed Moss Lake and passed Lake Charles (the city), and at Jennings turned on to route 26 which led us to route 14. This final stretch of the road is possibly the worst we have yet traveled, along a truckers county back road, that rattled and shook us to the point that I began wondering if any of my many fillings was jiggling loose. This stretch certainly tested the stability of all the furnishings! Thankfully everything aboard remained intact. 
We entered a region of sugar cane plantations. At first I thought I was looking at corn fields but it was mile after mile of cane fields. We saw first-hand why Louisiana's main crop is sugar cane. It is everywhere!




We spent two nights at a lovely city park, Abbeville RV Park, which is very quiet and located in a pretty setting. The drive into the RV park was through a mile of forested land. The Figges joined us in Abbeville, so we now had nine in our group continuing on to the final destination in New Orleans.



Some of the group went off as soon as they set up. The rest of us were happy to hang about in this nice campground and reserve our energy for a full day tomorrow. Carol had arranged a Cajun cuisine tour for the morning, after which several of us decided we would explore a nature preserve at Lake Martin in the afternoon. But first, this evening we all gathered for dinner at a local haunt to enjoy oysters and other seafood. 
shrimp, crab cakes, and yam fries

 

Tuesday, November 7, 2017

ACA Heritage Rally:New Braunfels, Texas November 1- 7

We heard so much about the New Braunfels rally from so many different Alpine friends that we simply had to sign up! After a week here, I understand what everyone was raving about. 
Once again, Jan (and Dean) did an incredible amount of preparation and planning so that we would all enjoy ourselves and experience as much as possible of Texas' Hill Country. This is where the Sandmires live and they were not only wonderful hosts but also happen to love where they live and wanted to share everything about their home area.
At check-in, we were given totes with all sorts of goodies: a folder with the schedule, maps, and detailed information about things to do and see in the immediate vicinity; information brochures for attractions nearby; a welcome goodie bag filled with made-in-Texas gifts like sausage, candy, coffee, bottle of hot sauce, cream soda, and a candle. This happened to also be New Braunfels' Wurstfest celebration week so the sausage was very timely and appropriate.

As with all rallies, there were times we were all together and times we were free to choose activities on our own to explore the area. Folks often choose to go off in small groups together or plan to meet up along the way. 
Every morning we had a planned breakfast, and being the consummate hostess she is, Jan planned different breakfasts with a Texan and German theme. We met in the social hall for Kaffeeklatsch (informal gathering for coffee and conversation) which included donuts and pastries, sausage kolaches, breakfast burritos, and a catered eggs and bacon breakfast. It was a wonderful start to each day!
We had a catered TexMex dinner on arrival day (always welcome because arrival day is the time we meet and greet friends and meet new folks too), a dinner outing to Tejas Steak and Rodeo, and and a Texas-style catered barbecue dinner our last evening. 
One day the ladies were treated to a delicious catered luncheon and time to exhibit their talents and passions at a show-and-tell (and there are talented ladies in our group who quilt and knit, make hats, create jewelry, and do stained glass). The men shared their talents and passions at a gearhead session and enjoyed a sack lunch. Except for the association meeting after breakfast one morning, the rest of our time was free to fill in any way we wished. Jan's detailed folder of local attractions made it hard to choose. We would have to stay at least a month to see and do it all!


lederhosen and funny hats seemed to be
the outfit of choice for Wurstfest
Wurstfest was the main attraction and we were there for opening night. Having just returned from Oktoberfest a month ago, it was interesting to see a smaller replica of this Bavarian festival right here in the heart of Texas. With folks strutting about in the their lederhosen and dirndls, oompah bands belting out polkas, and folks guzzling beer and eating bratwurst and potato pancakes, you would swear we were right back in Munich! In fact, entire families were dressed in folk costume, down to the smallest child wearing child-sized lederhosen and Bavarian hat. 
The one difference I noticed is that this event was very family oriented and even the rides were primarily for little ones.
This was a well-attended event with food, beer of course, dancing in the main hall, five separate stages featuring over 40 bands, and many booths selling German nick-nacks and other products.

dancing in the main hall

folks lining up at food booths

Turkey legs and Pizza have been added to the German menu here in Texas
We made our way around the grounds, listened to a couple of bands with their accordions, and met up with a few Alpine folks also at the festival. 
As the sun set we noticed a bright, full moon shining over the Wurstfest celebrations.


So why the German influence? In 1845, Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels together with a group of German immigrants established New Braunfels, naming the settlement in his hometown's honor. At that time, Texas was a Republic and the Prince hoped to establish a German colony, and raised funds to encourage settlers. Wikipedia gives more historical detail on the origins of the settlement and the Prince's ulterior motives to create a German feudal state which did not materialize. However, the German influence remains to this day and makes for an entertaining way to spend a weekend at this town's fall festival. 
Here is a link to more information about New Braunfels: New Braunfels

And what are the origins of Wurstfest? What began as a one-day sausage contest in 1961 ended up into an annual town fall festival drawing thousands of visitors that you can read all about here: Origins of Wurstfest
Wurstfest is now, in fact, a blend of old German heritage and culture adapted to a different country, Texas style. And it was a lot of fun.

Our evening at Tejas Steak and Rodeo was another fun-filled event that left me with a different perspective on small town rodeos. 
Our group first gathered for dinner and stayed on for the pro rodeo which began later in the evening. 


We attended our first and only other rodeo in Ellensburg with our NoWACA group three years ago. And that was also our first introduction to a professional rodeo with all its bull and bronco bouncing, barrel racing, and cattle roping. I have my opinions on what we witnessed there (https://alpine36adventures.blogspot.com/2015/09/rodeo-reflections.html). 
At this pro rodeo there was also bull-riding, calf-roping and barrel racing. But the unexpected was the sheep riding competition for the little children. It was quite a surprise to see little ones holding hands and being led into the arena. Then one at a time, each child was helped onto the back of a large, woolly sheep, and held on for dear life as the sheep was let out of the pen. They call it "mutton busting." Just like with bull riding, the contestants are awarded points for how long they can hold on before falling off. The youngest contestant was 4 years old! The oldest in the group was 10. I couldn't help but laugh in sheer disbelief at what was going on before my very large and surprised eyes! 
the quality isn't too great but you get the idea
what sheep riding looks like
I overheard the mother of a family sitting in front of us in the bleachers chat with her husband about entering their daughter in the next competition. Then suddenly both mother and daughter disappeared. I realized the little 6-year-old with a pink helmet in the arena was the same girl when her grandparents started yelling and clapping wildly and taking video of her holding on to her sheep for dear life! Hmm... I tried hard to imagine entering our girls in a sheep riding competition at that age.... It is obviously something that city living does not include in a child's experience and I marvelled at how very different life is for children growing up in a ranching community. And they seemed to really enjoy what they were doing too. Some of the contestants there were already young champs who had competed in other cities. 
Later that evening there was yet another surprise when all the children 12 and under in the audience were invited into the arena. They rushed from the bleachers, including one tiny toddler who could barely walk! An event coordinator together with the rodeo clowns had the kids go through some warm-up exercises which included lying down on the dirt floor. The next thing, young bull calves were let into the arena and I watched in complete fascination as the herd of kids chased the animals, trying to grab at the ribbons on their tails. The kids had a grand time, though I am not so sure the calves knew what to make of dozens of small two-legged creatures chasing them. Even the little toddler got into the action though I think we were all concerned he would be trodden by exuberant waves of calf chasers. Eventually a clown swooped up the little guy and walked around the arena until he was reunited with his mother. Evidently, folks here feel it's safe enough to let their kids out of sight and trust they will be protected.
Obviously this was a very family-oriented rodeo, and one that included events for the kids. Not that I would particularly choose this type of activity for my kids....unless of course I had married a ranching Texan. And then chaps and cowboy hats would be the choice instead of pointe shoes and tutus!  


Gruene Hall, maintaining the tradition of a venue for music and gatherings
One afternoon we headed out to Gruene, pronounced "Green." The draw to this quaint, historic, tourist trap is Gruene Hall, built in 1878 as a saloon and social hall for area cotton farmers. It is believed to be one of the oldest dance halls in Texas. 
German immigrant, Ernst Gruene, and his two sons purchased land just down river from New Braunfels as land was becoming scarce in the newly established city of New Braunfels by the time he and his new bride arrived in 1845. His son, Henry, planted cotton and soon the cotton business brought 20 to 30 families to Gruene's lands. Gruene's cotton industry brought prosperity to the area until the cotton gin burned, the boll weevil, and finally the Depression ended the family's good fortune. In 1974-75 after much of the Gruene estate was sold, and Gruene was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, tourists became drawn to this quaint town. 
The venue has since become a major music venue for up-and-coming musicians and songwriters.  We arrived at Gruene Hall to meet the rest of the group who were listening to the current band on stage. 
The music was deafeningly 
loud for me, so Sue and I crossed the street to check out the General Store, one of the original buildings remaining from Gruene's heyday. It was fun looking at the merchandise, a lot of it geared to tourists. Back in the late 1870's, Gruene Mercantile provided food, clothing, household goods and farm implements for the community, and also served as a stage stop and post office. It was also used as a distribution point for Gruene's Distillery, selling his Green River brand whiskey.

inside Gruene's General Store
Michael and I enjoyed a welcome ice-cream from the soda fountain corner in the store. We then strolled down to the river to take a look. We discovered a pretty scene.


One afternoon, we toured the Natural Bridges Caverns nearby. It was hot and humid in these caves, a constant 70-degrees fahrenheit with 99% humidity. We followed our tour guide 180-feet below the ground. These caverns are considered to be living, featuring stalagmites, stalactites and flowstone. Rainwater travels through the porous limestone layers, continuing to flow and drip into the caverns, leaving a sheen on the growing formations. 
the natural bridge at the entrance to the caverns

 
Our final night, we had a Texas style catered meal and live country music band with dancing. We had a blast. It was a great way to end a great rally.



The weather during our stay was hot and very muggy. After the dry heat in west Texas in the desert, it was a surprise to feel the energy-sapping humidity just a matter of 350-miles away as the crow flies. What struck me was the grey overhead skies each morning and often into late afternoon. Seattle skies are reputed to be grey (and depressing). Hill Country skies seemed not much different to me.
the campground is situated along the Guadalupe River
L&L Campground was a terrific venue. The campground is huge, right along the Guadalupe River, creating a scenic setting. 

It was deer mating season, so the dear were everywhere. Literally. I went for a walk one morning and I seemed to scare them at every footstep! Unfortunately there are also a lot of deer casualties alongside the roadways. It was sad to see. 
Mention of roadways reminded me that we were puzzled by the way the smaller side-roads are named: FM 708, FM 169 etc. Ginnie our Garmin helped us put two and two together: FM stands for Farm to Market, so here in Texas the roads through the countryside are Farm to Market roads.

Tomorrow after last goodbyes, we continue eastbound as we move on with another group heading to New Orleans.

Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Final Destination: New Braunfels, Texas

With only 75 short miles to our destination in New Braunfels, there was no rush this morning to pack up and head out. Oh, how I relished my cup of morning tea! 
Michael, however did have repair work to do before we headed out. The bay door to the tanks (the one without a lock) was flapping loose. I noticed it when we pulled into the campsite last night while I was spotting Michael as he maneuvered into the campsite. Sections along I-10 were a little breezy yesterday so we were lucky the door did not rip off.  Hopefully this new fix will work better than the old one. 
We were on the road by 11AM, following Jan's detailed directions right to Lazy L&L Campground along the Guadalupe River. 

The roads we traveled today were mostly local and county roads. Driving them gave us a glimpse of the neighborhoods we passed. I was struck by how forested this area is. We passed one ranch after another, each with large gates announcing the entrance. 
Many had both the American and Texan flags flying proudly at the entrance.
The topography became more hilly and green. Often we passed forests that looked like oaks to me. This area is appropriately called The Hill Country. We seemed to drive up then down one hill and on to another.




Eventually we turned on River Road and followed the Guadalupe River until we approached the RV park. We turned in, found our site, and set up. Here we would remain for a week with 50 other coaches coming to the rally.