Cannon Beach

Moving on up the coast, our next stop was Cannon Beach. There is an RV resort conveniently located at the south end of town. It's a short walk to get to the beach and Haystack Rock for which Cannon Beach is famous.
We were lucky to get a spot for a couple of nights at this busy time. 
Gloomy grey clouds settled in while we were there, and one day soft rain wafted through in waves. We did manage to dodge the drops though, and were still able to walk on the beach. And even though this is summer, we were bundled up against the refreshing wind. It feels good to walk on the soft sand and hear the waves, no matter what the weather has in mind.

Sunset through a layer of clouds is still pretty...

We enjoyed our time here and plan to return when it is less busy - that is the privilege we "older folks" now have!

Next stop: Fort Stevens State Park near Astoria. We will be there for a few days, and look forward to less drippy days, more long beach walks and exploring the area. There will of course be no WiFi but I promise, as always, to take lots of photos and will post once we are within range of the WWW again.

Beverly Beach

gateway to the beach

Beverly Beach State Park is located just north of Yaquina Head, and right across the highway from Beverly Beach. To get to the beach, a path takes you directly from the State Park and under the highway 101 bridge. 

There is about a two-mile stretch of flat beach where we walked/ran while here. To me, of the beaches we have recently walked, this beach seems more wild and remote. 

The sand is more grey, and I noticed more tangled seaweed deposited by the pounding surf. I noticed, too, a general absence of shells and the typical groups of squawking gulls.   

Just to the south, we could see the Yaquina light house atop Yaquina Head.

One day several turkey vultures were circling the bluffs before landing on the beach. 

Judging by their angled tops, the trees clinging to the cliffs look like they have struggled to resist the strong onshore winds. 
Mention the word beach and depending on where you grew up, the images will be very different.  For us, the beach evokes piercing hot sun, golden sand, rows of skimpily clad bodies reclining on beach towels or under beach umbrellas, and many folks bobbing about in the crashing surf. 
It has taken us decades to get used to a beach that is cold, often windy and enshrouded in mist, where we typically walk dressed in long pants, and wear hoodies and sneakers, sometimes gloves and hats, even in summer. 

Though different, the scenery is still stunning and folks still come in droves to enjoy themselves. Some are even brave enough to plunge into the icy cold water.

We enjoyed a couple of bright, sunny days before the clouds and mist rolled in. But we still had a good time, and enjoyed our walks along this wild and woolly beach with its pounding surf.

The cherry for us was seeing whale spouts where a pod of whales was having dinner one early evening. Look for the white puff in the middle of the blue sea... it was a lucky shot and it was a very exciting moment to see a flipper and tail emerge before the whale dived under again. 

Beverly Beach State Park

There are several surprises at Beverly Beach State Park. One is an ancient tree stump. 

We remember this stump from our previous stay and noticed that it has deteriorated substantially over the past 14 years.  Another ten years and it will likely turn to dust, a sad ending after being preserved for over 4,000 years.

Another fascinating tree fact in this park is the "octopus tree." In the early 1900's, the logging of spruce trees left fairly tall stumps  - because the spruce has such a wide base, loggers cut at a narrower spot several feet above the ground which left a tall stump. Young trees began sprouting on the stumps and as they grew, they sent out long roots over the original stump. The old stumps became nurse logs to the new trees, providing them with nutrients until they eventually rotted, leaving these fascinating trees with long legs.

We walked along the Spencer Creek Nature Trail, marveling at the ferns, lichens, moss, various berry bushes, and gigantic skunk cabbage. It felt like we had entered another world.

There is a Visitor Center with interesting information about the area, and the fauna and flora.  We saw a skull of a gray whale.

And we saw a stuffed Barred Owl and read interesting facts about these birds. Some folks like owls and find them fascinating, but ever since Michael's several owl encounters during his runs through our forest at home, we have a different opinion and dislike them intensely. If you had your hat snatched twice off your head (one a Xmas present made by Kathleen), your head whacked from behind without warning, and eleven puncture wounds from talons as you repeatedly got dive-bombed by this ferocious bird, you might think twice about how cute or wise they are. 

Michael's owl encounters are well known by our family and friends, who like to remind him that they sympathize about the unfortunate encounters by sharing cartoons - 

Since Michael tends to be an owl attractant, I am relieved that the only one we saw was the stuffed owl in the Information Center.

Next stop: Beverly Beach

We followed the dotted road on the map towards Beverly Beach. The trip north along coastal highway 101 is equally as scenic as the route south, so essentially, we did the reverse trip that took us to Coos Bay.  
We made our way uphill through forested areas, downhill past Oregon's famous dunes, and up again along craggy cliffs high above the water's edge. We crossed rivers and bridges, and drove through holiday beach towns hugging the coastline - North Bend, Winchester Bay, Reedsport, Yachats, Waldport, Newport. The 100 mile journey took a lot longer along the winding road and slowing down through the towns that stretch out for several blocks wedged along the narrow coastline.  

beautiful scenery along this well-traveled dotted highway on the map

Heceta Head and its lighthouse

we'd round a bend to gaze straight at the Pacific

we passed  many logging trucks transporting their cargo

yet another stunning view of this wild and craggy coastline

Waldport abuzz with vacationers

folks enjoying the beach among the monoliths

Beverly Beach ahead

We arrived at Beverly Beach State Park mid afternoon, and set up in our site nestled between the creek running behind us and the towering trees surrounding us. It was a bit of a challenge squeezing in between the bushes, but my bus driver expertly maneuvered Alpine into the tight space.
The last time we were here was in October 2001. The Oregon State Parks really are terrific. The setting at Beverly Beach is magical, set amongst tall redwoods, each campsite private and hidden by tall bushes of salal and other undergrowth. The park was active and full with vacationing families, kids scooting about on bikes and having a whale of a time, and folks walking their dogs who seemed equally happy to be enjoying the new smells and environment.
The familiar sounds of wood being chopped, crackling fires, and conversations of folks huddled around the fire or picnic table in this glorious outdoor setting, reminded me why our state parks are so popular. 
We set up home, plugged in (yes there is 30 amp electric hookup here), and sat outside in our private little glen, enjoying our cup of tea.  With no WiFi to distract either of us, we were happy to read, knit, do Sudoku.... or simply revel in the solitude and relax.

Moving on

This morning we are heading on to Beverly Beach, about 100 miles north along the coast. We remember this state beach from a previous visit many years ago now and were lucky to get a reservation for this week. This being the summer season and school vacation, state parks are pretty busy so finding a spot for three days is lucky.
I doubt we will have WiFi available but I promise to take lots of photos to share later once we can connect to the WWW.

Happy Birthday America

I don't know if this is now becoming a trend, but we seem to be celebrating America's holidays on Indian land at a casino in Oregon. First it was Thanksgiving on Cow Creek land at Seven Feathers Casino and now July 4th on Coquille land. On Friday night, The Mill Casino put on a fantastic fireworks display right here. 

I think it must be the first time I have been up close to a fireworks display, shot off from a barge right here in the inlet flowing right past the RV Park. 

I think this one could well rival the Seattle fireworks on Lake Union.

The evening was perfect, clear and warm enough to be outside. The fireworks lasted around 20 minutes and were quite spectacular with reverberating booms, and explosions of color .

What a treat!

Then again last night, on the 4th, Coos Bay put on a fireworks display which we were also able to watch right here from the RV Park. 

It's been quite a celebration for our 239th birthday.

Hanging out in Cool Coos Bay, Oregon

While the rest of the inland northwest has endured a heatwave, we have enjoyed cooler temperatures along the coast. The Mill Casino RV Park, situated along the bay, has turned out to be a pleasant place to hang out. We have been quite comfortable here this past week, and it appears from the other folks in the RV Park with whom we have chatted, they too are here to escape the current unusual inland heat.
We have woken up to hazy mornings. By early afternoon, the haze burns away and we bask in glorious sunshine. Later, the winds pick up, then calm down again in the early evening.

I did a bit of scavenging on the Internet to find out a little history about Coos Bay and the origin of its name. Our US history follows a predictable pattern. Prior to the Europeans, always in search of opportunity and settling in the region, there were Native Indians living here. For thousands of years this southern Oregon coastal area was home to the Coos, Lower Umpqua, Siuslaw, and Coquille tribes. The name Coos in Indian means both lake and place of pines, an apt description of the geography of the area.  
The Coos and Coquille tribes occupied more than 700,000 acres along Oregon's southern coast and the lower valleys. They lived in family groups in plank houses along the waterways.  Seasonal camps were used for hunting and fishing. Most were hunters, fishermen, and gatherers. A network of footpaths linked the tribes and facilitated trade. Recreation included foot races, canoe races (still an annual event), dice games using bone and sticks, and a type of field hockey called shinny.
The Coquille Tribe owns and operates the Mill Casino and RV Park.

From the mid-1800's, European settlers began arriving, though it is believed that British and Spanish explorers visited here as long as 400 years ago, and that in 1579 Sir Francis Drake sought shelter for his ship, the Golden Hinde, near Cape Arago (the lighthouse we saw from Bastendorff Beach). Traders, like fur trader Jedediah Smith, and explorers searching for an inland passage, like the Hudson Bay's Alexander McLeod, are known to have been here too. 
In 1852, survivors of a shipwreck set up camp here until they could be rescued. By 1853, a permanent settlement and the town of Marshfield, Coos Bay's original name, became established with the arrival of more settlers. The area remained remote and difficult to reach, other than by sea, largely due to the Coastal Range which was a barrier until the arrival of roads and the eventual railroad. 

Coos Bay is Oregon's largest bay, has the largest concentration of people  on the Oregon Coast (over 16,000), and still remains the commercial center of Oregon's south coast. The Port of Coos Bay is the largest and deepest coastal harbor between San Francisco Bay and the Puget Sound. Judging by the size of the gargantuan we watched glide past the casino, I can see that it must be so. 

We watched as two tugs turned the cargo ship around, right here in front of the casino. 

The Coos Bay region began to prosper as a center for wood products, shipbuilding, shipping, and fishing, directly due to the port that was established in 1909. It is one of the leading forest products shipping centers in the country. Evidence of the lumber industry is all around us. Here at the casino, which sits on the site of a previous Weyerhauser sawmill (hence the name "The Mill Casino"), we are literally flanked on one side by a mound of logs and planks and on the other by the largest pile of wood-chips I have ever seen.

There is a rail line that runs through here and we have watched occasional trains transporting lumber.

the giant sawdust pile south of the casino grounds

lumber, trimmed and ready for shipping north of the casino grounds

The casino name and its emblem is in keeping with its lumber and mill history.

We have driven along the very scenic coastal Highway 101 several times in the past. It's a small 2-lane ribbon hugging the coastline, connecting a few small towns that mostly attract tourists and vacationers. And so it was surprising to discover that Coos Bay and the adjoining town of North Bend are a busy and thriving commercial area. We chatted briefly with a taxi driver at the casino who has lived here for over 30 years and loves it. According to the information brochures on Coos Bay, even the weather sounds rather attractive, with mild temperatures year round. The down side is the 69 inches of rainfall (Bellevue gets an average of 37 inches), but supposedly it falls mainly in December and January, and June through August are dry and sunny. And mild. 

view from the RV park

No place is perfect in every way, and perhaps this is another area that seems quite appealing for us to consider as a small town home on the coast with pretty scenery and beach access. But if only I could be assured that a devastating earthquake and tsunami will not occur in our lifetime....